PUNNY PICTURES

Sunday, 20 July 2008

HCM Tour

An Dong Market

This three-story market in District 5 features some modern architecture than Ben Thanh or Binh Tay markets, including escalators. It is both a retail and wholesale market.

The basement is reserved for processed and packaged foods and small eateries that sell Vietnamese dishes such as noodle soup, rice and sweet soup. On the first floor are jewelry, footwear, fabrics, eyewear and hat stalls. The second floor features garments and the third has lacquer ware, woodwork and handicrafts. Jackets and knitwear are also available on this floor.

• Tips for travelers:
Pros: Many shopkeepers can speak Chinese. Many items have price tags. Cons: There are fewer people who can speak English at An Dong than at Ben Thanh

• How to get there
Take the Ben Thanh-Dam Sen bus rout. It departs at the central bus station just cross the south gate of Ben Thanh Market. Get off on An Duong Vuong Street in District 5 and walk to the market just a few blocks away. The bus route operates from 5a.m. to 6:45 p.m. at intervals of 15 minutes.

A taxi from Ben Thanh to An Dong costs about VND28,OOO.
History of the ao dai
Even now, nobody is sure of the true origin of the ao dai. Yet, looking back to history, the image of the graceful two – flapped ao dai in the breeze can be seen in images on the surfaces of the historical Ngoc Lu kettledrum carved a few thousand years ago.

It is assumed that in the early 18th century women of King Nationality wore skirts like today’s ethnic minority women. In 1744, Lord Vu Vuong of the Nguyen Dynasty was assigned to revise the dress of Vietnamese ladies. He was the one who made the first design of the ao dai under certain influences of Muong patterns and Chinese versions. Later on, the ao tu than (four – flapped dress) was selected as the official national dress for Vietnamese ladies.

Ao dai is a two-piece garment made of cloth, it is full-length and worn over loose silk trousers that brush the floor. It flatters every figure for those who wear it. The Long Dress splits into two flaps, a front and back panel from the waist down, made comfortable and easy to move in. Ao Dai at that time was wider and simpler than that of today.

Today, the Ao dai length is shorter than that in the past; it is only below the knee. Women wear Ao dai in different colors without the same patterns and designs. The colors of Ao Dai show us to know the age and the status of the wearer. Schoolgirls usually wear white Long Dress, the color of white symbolizes their purity.

There is also a similar costume for men and is also called “Ao Dai,” but the man’s dress is shorter, just at knee length, and more loose-fitting. Men wear it less than women; they usually wear it on ceremonial occasions such as weddings or funerals.
The Ao Dai today has been becoming more and more popular. There are plentiful of designs, materials, and colors. Velvet, silk, satin, embroidered, painted or printed with flowers pattern have been creating more and more exquisite and elegant. Therefore, it has become standard outfit for many office workers and hotel staff. Moreover, it has now been the favored dress for most formal occasions.
To the whole Vietnamese people, it has been always synonymous with their grace and beauty. Over many years in Vietnam’s history, it still kept its symbolism and image in the hearts of all Vietnamese. The Ao Dai has been perfected step by step to overcome all ages and time to reach with all people not only in our country but also in the world. To Vietnamese people, rich or poor, old or young, the Ao Dai are always their favorite choice in most special occasions.
Apocalypse Now2C Thi Sach, Dist. 1. Tel: 8241463.One of the best bars in town. Tip: Carefully selected music not usually found in other bars or cafes.Backpacker streetsBach Dang Ice Cream
26B Le Loi Street, Dist.1. Tel: 8257140.A favorite place of young Saigonese. At night, this ice cream shop of several stories is often full. Tip: At night, watching Le Loi Street, one of the main streets of Saigon, is an experience one should try.
Ben Duoc TempleNear Cu Chi Tunnel, Ben Duoc Temple was built in 1993 to commemorate war martyrs who died fighting for Vietnam's independence.
Ben Thanh MarketThis "all-in-one" market is in the center of the city. Tip: A must-visit place. You need no address of Ben Thanh Market. Call a cab and ask the driver to take you to Cho Ben Thanh.
Ben Thanh Tourist4-6 Ho Huan Nghiep St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8238962One of the top-ten tour operators in Vietnam
Binh Quoi Tourist Village 1147 Binh Quoi St., Binh Thanh Dist. Tel: 8841195.On Thanh Da peninsula, the tourist village is like a huge garden with lawns and trees. Tip: A tourist village beside the Saigon River.
Binh Tay MarketBinh Tay Market on Thap Muoi Street in District 6 is the largest wholesale market in town.
Blue Ginger37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8298676A restaurant of Vietnamese cuisine tourists shouldn't miss. Tip: The banh cuon tom ap chao (pan-fried shrimp scallion ravioli) is a must.
Bodhi Tree Restaurant175/6 Pham Ngu Lao St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8369545.This restaurant offers a menu of 150 vegetarian dishes from Vietnam, India, Mexico and Italy. Tip: Dishes are cooked when ordered.
Bonsai 1 cruise ship1147 Binh Quoi St., Binh Thanh Dist., Tel: 8991833.A wooden cruise ship on the Saigon River, the Bonsai 1 is 40m long, 9m wide, and capable of accommodating 120 people. Tip: Cozy atmosphere.Brodard Restaurant11 Nguyen Thiep St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8275891.A favorite coffee shop of the Saigonese.
Ca keo hotpot streetCa keo is a fish about 10cm long. Grilled ca keo fish served with tamarind fish sauce is a specialty. But it is ca keo hotpot that makes this a special street in HCM City. Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Street and its environs in District 1 are the ca keo hotpot street. The hotpot has a sour taste, and is served with a lot of vegetables and rice vermicelli. Tip: How to eat a ca keo fish from the hotpot: Put the entire stewed fish in your mouth with the tail in first. Hold the fish with your lips and pull the fish out by its head. The meat of the fish will remain in your mouth while the head and the backbone is pulled out.
Caravelle Hotel

19 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist. 1. Tel: 8234999No other five-star hotels in town have a history comparable to that of the Caravelle. The hotel is also the first hotel to win The Saigon Times FDI Top 40 Award for foreign investors. Tip: Saigon Saigon Bar is a must.
Carving street, a section of Cong Hoa Street in Tan Binh District
Cha ca La Vong - A Special Dish A specialty of Hanoi, cha ca La Vong (La Vong fish paste) is now available in HCM City. The place that serves it is Cha Ca La Vong Restaurant.The restaurant opened in May, 2003, and it has been serving only the dish besides drinks. With 20 tables, it can serve 120 customers at the same time. "At present, though not much advertising has been done for the dish, about 10% of our customers are foreigners," says Doan Cong Thanh, the owner. He says the fish paste was invented by his great-great grandparents more than a century ago. It is made of catfish or snakehead fish fillets. They are spiced and broiled, and are eaten with rice vermicelli or banh da (northern-style rice paper) and fermented shrimp paste, fried peanuts, pickled spring onion bulbs, and aromatic herbs. The eatery belongs to his family's three-restaurant chain and it is the only branch in the South. The main restaurant is also the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (in operation for 133 years), located at 14 Cha Ca St., Hanoi. The La Vong fish paste is the only dish which is used to name an ancient street in Hanoi. In particular, it has been introduced in the website of the U.S. television station MSNBC as one of the 10 places that everybody should visit before they die.Address: 31 Nguyen Thi Dieu St., Dist. 1, HCM CityTel: 9305674
Com Nieu Saigon Restaurant6 C Tu Xuong St., Dist. 3. Tel: 9326388.Tip: Rice cooked in clay pots.
Conical hatOne of the symbols of Vietnam. In HCM City, non la is still worn by street traders. It remains a favorite item for foreign tourists because it is made from natural materials.
Continental Hotel132 Dong Khoi St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8299201.Built in 1880, Continental is the oldest hotel in HCM City and Vietnam. Tip: The hotel welcomed French writer Andre Malraux, Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore and British writer Graham Greene.
Cruise ships on the Saigon River at night
Cu Chi Tunnel in Cu Chi DistrictOnce the headquarters of the armed forces in Saigon-Gia Dinh, Cu Chi Tunnel is a system of 200km of tunnels between 2.5m and 12m underground. Tip: Tourists can shoot real guns.
D.A.N.19 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist. 1. Tel: 8247144.A must-see jewelry shop in downtown HCM City.Dam Sen Park3 Hoa Binh St., Dist. 11. Tel: 8841195.Dam Sen is one of the recreational parks most familiar to Saigonese. Tip: It has a water park inside.Draft beerIn HCM City bia hoi or draft beer is often served in sidewalk eateries. Bia hoi is often served with grilled dried squid or groundnuts. Tip: Bia hoi is inexpensive beer and bia hoi eateries are where people make friends easily.Fashion streetFootwear streets
General Le Van Duyet Temple1 bis Phan Dang Luu St., Binh Thanh Dist. Tel: 8412517.This is the temple of Le Van Duyet, a high-ranking mandarin of the Nguyen Dynasty and governor of Gia Dinh, the former name of Saigon-Gia Dinh area, now HCM City.
Giac Lam Pagoda118 Lac Long Quan St, Tan Binh Dist. Tel: 8642012.The oldest pagoda in HCM City.
Givral Restaurant169 Dong Khoi St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8292747.One of the best-loved coffee shops in Saigon.
HCM City's Wall Street
Ho Chi Minh Museum1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Dist. 4 Tel: 8299749.Also called Ben Nha Rong, the building used to be the office of the French maritime transport firm Messageries Maritimes. It was at this place that Nguyen Tat Thanh, who later became Uncle Ho, embarked on the Latouche Treville to go abroad to begin the struggle for Vietnam's independence. The museum displays materials about President Ho's activities.Ho Chi Minh City History Museum2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St., Dist. 1, Tel: 9100167.One of the oldest museums in the city, the museum displays exhibits on Vietnam's history and on some themes such as antiques, the Phu Nam culture, Cham arts and Mekong Delta arts.
Ho Chi Minh Operation Museum2 Le Duan St. Tel: 8229387.
Hoa Vien Brauhaus28 bis Mac Dinh Chi St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8290585.A cozy place to enjoy draft beer from Pilsen, the Czech Republic, and Eastern European dishes.
Kuan Yu's Temple678 Nguyen Trai St., Dist. 5. Tel: 8538775.Not far from the Lady's Temple is a temple built by the local Trieu Chau association to worship Quan Vu, or Quan Cong (Kuan Yu). It is called Nghia An Hoi Quan or Mieu Ong.Lady's Temple710 Nguyen Trai St., Dist. 5. Tel: 8555322.Built by the local Guangdong community in the 19th century to worship the goddess of the sea, this temple attracts the largest turnout in Cho Lon, the Chinese area of HCM City. The temple has been renovated by Saigontourist to make it more attractive. Tip: Sophisticated ceramic sculpture on the roof of the temple.
Le Cong Kieu Antique street
Lion draft beer11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist. 1. Tel: 8238514.
Mangosteen Restaurant in Bong Sen Hotel117-123 Dong Khoi St., Dist. 1 .Tel: 8291516.
Mrs. Ca Doi Restaurant11 Ton That Thiep St., Dist. 1.One of the oldest restaurants in Saigon, the 50-year-old restaurant was set up by a northern woman. The Menu is of the daily dishes of Vietnamese families. Tip: The restaurant has a northern taste, but its diners are people from all over Vietnam plus foreigners.
Nhu Lan bread with ham50, 68 Ham Nghi St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8292970.Set up in 1968, Nhu Lan was first on Gia Long Street, now Ly Tu Trong, before being moved to Ham Nghi Street. Aside from ready-to-eat foods, Nhu Lan also offer dishes from the three regions of Vietnam. Tip: Vietnamese bread with ham is Nhu Lan specialty.
Nightclub quarter
Notre Dame Cathedral

Quang Truong Cong Xa Paris, Dist. 1. Tel: 8294822.Built by the French in 1877, this cathedral, the best known in Saigon, has neo-Romanesque architecture and two towers 57m high. In front of it is a statue of the Virgin Mary. Tip: Some ceremonies are in English.
Oriental medicine streetPanorama 3337 Ton Duc Thang St., Dist. 1. Tel: 9100493.The coffee shop is at the top of HCM City and Vietnam's tallest building, where you can watch the city's skyline, including its most famous structures and the winding Saigon River. Tip: There is a terrace at Panorama 33 where you can inhale fresh air high in the sky.Pedestrian street
Pho 2000 (pho soup restaurant)1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, St.1. Tel: 8222788.
Pho 24 (pho soup restaurant)67 Hai Ba Trung St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8228360.
Phu Thinh SouvernirsBamboo and rattan products.23/2A Tran Nao St., Dist. 2. Tel: 8875736.
Phu Tho Horse Race StadiumLe Dai Hanh St., Dist. 11. Tel: 8662644.
Reunification Palace133 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8223652.On this site the former palace of the French governor of Indochina was built in 1868 and became the presidential palace of South Vietnam when Ngo Dinh Diem came to power in 1950s. After being damaged by bombs during a coup attempt in early 1960s, the palace was rebuilt. In early 1975, Nguyen Thanh Trung, a revolutionary secret agent who was a Saigon regime fighter pilot dropped bombs on the palace. On April 30, 1975, tanks of the liberation army crashed through the main gate of the palace, ending the 20-year war for Vietnam's reunification.
Rex Hotel141 Nguyen Hue St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8292185.One of the best known hotels of HCM City. Tip: From Rex's rooftop Garden Bar, which was voted by Newsweek as one of the best in Asia, tourists can see busy streets thrivers. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Saigontourist Department Store35bis-45 Le Thanh Ton St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8225328.One of the most modern shopping center in town.
Saigontourist Travel Service49 Le Thanh Ton St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8298914.One of the most reliable tour operators in Vietnam.
Saigon Water Park

About 10km from downtown, Saigon Water Park was the first modern water park in HCM City and Vietnam.
SakuraA restaurant run by a Japanese lady with a mentally-handicapped staff.4 Ton Duc Thang St., Dist. 1.QI Saigon Spa253 Nguyen Van Troi St., Phu Nhuan Dist. Tel: 8449222
Salted fish hotpotA southern specialty cooked with salted fish and eaten with a lot of vegetables. Rice vermicelli is put into a bowl, and beef, fish, shrimp and squid is put into a hotpot. Tip: A bowl of lau mam must be served with a lot of vegetables.
Sheraton Hotel Saigon88 Dong Khoi St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8272828.The five-star of the five-star hotels in Saigon.
Southern BBQ villageThese restaurants, often on large roofed space, are becoming more popular. Besides, grilled dishes, other southern foods are served. You can find one at 9 Tang Bat Ho Street in District 5 (Tel: 8554024).
Soya milkA wonderful beverage because it is nutritious and cheap and available everywhere.
Squid Rice PorridgeA popular dish, the chao muc is delicious. Dried squid is grilled and torn into small pieces and then cooked with rice. Tip: Thanh Son eatery at 144 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, District 3 (Tel: 8297554), is a good place to visit.
Street of ornamental fishA section of Nguyen Thong Street, District 3. One can find everything for an aquarium.
Sugarcane juice, sold everywhere.
Suoi Tien ParkTan Phu, Dist. 9. Tel: 8964705.For provincial visitors to HCM City, Suoi Tien is a must-see place. Tip: Huge statues of the kings of the Hung Dynasty, the founders of Vietnam.
Tao Dan Park on Truong Dinh Street in District 1.The park resembles a part of a jungle in the middle of Saigon, with many high trees providing shade for the whole park. A place of interest of Saigonese who do physical exercise.
Tax Shopping Center135 Nguyen Hue St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8213849.The wedding apparelstreet
Thu Ha Tailor, a tailor for foreigners at Vietnamese prices.29 Nguyen Huy Tu St., Dist. 1, Tel: 8203981Thu Ha has both Vietnamese and foreign clientele. Foreign customers are residents in serviced apartments such as Somerset or Norfolk Mansion or living in An Phu or Thao Dien. June, July and December are peak time for foreign customers who go on vacation or return to their homeland to welcome the new year. Suits and coats are the two most popular items for this kind of client. Tip: Foreigners and Vietnamese pay the same price which is reasonable. Thu Ha is very punctual in delivery.
Thuan Kieu broken rice54 Thuan Kieu St., Dist. 11. Tel: 8562891.Although also using rice, com tam is a unique dish of the Vietnamese. The rice must be broken rice to have a special taste. Thuan Kieu has nine restaurants in HCM City. Tip: Home delivery available.
Thuyen Vien Vegetarian Restaurant 11-13 Nguyen Van Dau St., Binh Thanh Dist. Tel: 8433050.With a menu of 60 dishes, Thuyen Vien is one of the famed vegetarian restaurants in HCM City, although it is not in the city's downtown. Tip: Open from 7a.m. to 10p.m. Thuyen Vien also offers excellent cakes for vegetarians.Traditional Medicine Institute273 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., Phu Nhuan Dist. Tel: 8443049.This institute holds short courses on health and yoga, and it treats patients using traditional Vietnamese medicines.
Tropical Vietnamese fruitDon't miss a chance to taste Vietnam's best fruit when in HCM City. Tip: The section of Le Thanh Ton Street opposite Ben Thanh Market in District 1 has several shops selling good fruit at fixed prices.Vam Sat ResortLy Nhon, Can Gio Dist. Tel: 8876169.A resort in the middle of Can Gio mangrove forest, one of the world's recognized biospheres. Tip: Dam Doi near Vam Sat is the natural habitat of large flocks of bats.
Vietnam Golf & Country Club Long Thanh My, Dist. 9. Tel: 2800115
Vietnamese filter coffee
The French introduced coffee into Vietnam less than two centuries ago. Now Vietnam has become one of the world's top coffee exporters. In this digital age, some Vietnamese have adopted instant coffee with Coffeemate cream and sugar, and others use electric coffee makers. The purists, however, shun such philistine practices and keep the habit of enjoying ca phe phin, filtered coffee, lovingly produced by single-cup filters. It's simple to make a cup of filtered coffee. The filter is placed on a coffee cup or glass, two teaspoons of ground coffee are added, and then boiled water. The filter is capped and another process begins that Vietnamese claim is essential to enjoying coffee: the Wait. You sit, you talk or meditate, you think about what you are about to savor. In a minute or so, the first drops of precious dark brown liquid begin to fall from the filter to the cup. It takes a full five to ten minutes for the water to fully pass through the filter. When it stops dripping, remove the cap and manipulate the little press to squeeze the last drops from the fragrant grounds. Add sugar or condensed milk to your taste and stir with a spoon. The filtered coffee is now at your service.But is the art of making filtered coffee really so simple? Of course not, or else the thousands of coffee shops in Vietnam will shut down. The art lies in how the coffee is treated before being ground, and the way boiled water is poured into the filter. The secrets are too complicated for this article. In fact, not all coffee shops here mastered the art of making filtered coffee. However, coffee enthusiasts prefer having a cup of coffee at a shop to a homemade coffee. There, they can sip hot coffee while discussing current news or sports. They sit on stools, often very low, at inexpensive ca phe via he, or sidewalk coffee sites, a common scene in Vietnam. However, for the elite there are luxurious ca phe via he as well. Some of these in HCM City may approach the caliber of coffee shops along France's famous Champs Elysee. For example, the one in front of Me Linh Point Tower where coffee drinkers can watch the Tran Hung Dao Monument Park and inhale the fresh air from the Saigon River. At Highlands coffee shop at The Metropolitan Building, customers can take in the view of the Paris Commune Square, Notre Dame Cathedral, the lovely Central Post Office, and Diamond Plaza Shopping Center. Half a century ago the Hotel Continental's sidewalk coffee shop was a rendezvous for French elite and international journalists, but it has gone. When filmmakers shot Indochina, Dien Bien Phu and The Quiet American, they had to recreate it. Filtered coffee is available at rooftop cafes at the Rex, Caravelle, Palace, Century Saigon and other hotels. HCM City's highest coffee shop lies on the 33rd story of the Saigon Trade Center, which is the tallest building in Vietnam. There, you can both enjoy a cup of filtered coffee and a panoramic view of Saigon. There have been no reports on whether the altitude affects the taste one way or the other. If you're used to drinking instant coffee, don't hesitate to try a cup of filtered coffee, another unforgettable experience of Vietnam. And if you want to try making your own, the Vietnamese coffee filter is made of aluminum or stainless steel and sells for VND5,000-10,000 in department stores.
Vietnamese pancakes on Dinh Cong Trang Street46A Dinh Cong Trang St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8241110.
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., Dist. 1. Tel: 8483153.This is the biggest Buddhist pagoda in HCM City. The main hall was completed in 1970 with assistance from Japanese, and the pagoda has some Japanese architectural characteristics. Tip: The pagoda's bell is also a gift from Japan.Xe OmA motorbike taxi is a very convenient way for budget tourists to move around town.
Xich LoXich lo comes from the French word "cyclo." Traveling by xich lo is now a great way to tour the city. A guest sits in the front of the vehicle and the driver sits behind. A xich lo that runs slowly on the streets of Saigon helps a tourist enjoy the cityscape and Saigonese activities. Tip: If you are courageous enough, ask the driver to give you a try at the cycling (but not on crowded streets).
War Museum28 Vo Van Tan St., Dist. 3. Tel: 8290325.A must-see for foreign tourists. On display are exhibits concerning the atrocities during the Vietnam war such as My Lai massacre and victims of napalm bombs and Agent Orange. There is also a guillotine brought to Vietnam by the French colonialists. In late 1950s, this guillotine was moved to several provinces in South Vietnam to execute revolutionists. The souvenir shop sells items related to the war.Len Saigon (Wool Products)255 Hoang Van Thu St, Tan Binh Dist.. Tel: 8445943.Fl. 2, Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai St., Dist. 1.Fl. 1, City Plaza, 230 Nguyen Trai St., Dist. 1.Ground Fl., CMC Plaza, 79B Ly Thuong Kiet St., Tan Binh Dist. Zen Plaza54-56 Nguyen Trai St., Dist. 1. Tel: 9280339.Biggest fashion center in HCM City

History Ho Chi Minh City

The first settlersIn his book of literary works about the southern land in the 17th century when the first Vietnamese settlers arrived, Le Quy Don wrote: “From the Can Gio Estuary, the Soai Rap, Tieu (Small) and Dai (Grand) estuaries ... up (the rivers)”, the land of Saigon remained deserted, covered by dense forests and marshes. A few groups of ethnic tribes such as the Khmer, the Stieng, and the Ma were dwelling sparsely on high ground. The Vietnamese settlers were migrants from the North and the Central provinces. The majority of them were poor peasants ruined by the war between feudal clans, others were soldiers and officers ordered by feudal governments to garrison in the South, and some were runaway convicts. They all crossed the sea in small boats and from the Can Gio Estuary they sailed up the Saigon River to land in the area of today’s Saigon. The first migrants settled on high ground by the river to cultivate the land as the area had plenty of fresh water and good weather conditions. Gradually the settlers moved outward to reclaim cultivable land from forests, marshes and plains. They built homes and hamlets, gardens and rice fields.History books mentioned Mo Xoai, probably an area of today’s Ba Ria, as the first settlement of those Vietnamese migrants. Here the land is quite high and near watercourses, rivers and the sea, which was favorable for providing them with a living.From Mo Xoai, these immigrants quickly expanded their settlement, claimed virgin land in parts that are Dong Nai Province and Ho Chi Minh City. The natural conditions in these areas did not differ from those of Mo Xoai, and the watercourses were propitious to navigation, which encouraged the settlers to move even further. By the middle of the 17th century, Vietnamese migrants were reportedly settling in the area that makes up today’s Phnom Penh.In the Vietnamese settlers facing the wildness of the old Saigon-Gia Dinh area, a land generous but mysterious and giving rise to plenty of mishaps, felt hesitant. This is reflected by the following folk poem:We are here in a strange place;We fear a bird chirping and tremble at a fish wobblingThose pioneers, energetic and strong-willed, remained in the land of Saigon, to begin a new life. By the time the first emissaries of the Nguyen Lord arrived to tour and inspect the new land, the first generations of settlers already had a stable life, cultivating their productive fields and gardens. Current history books wrote that some 10,000 people inhabited the Saigon area in the middle of the 17th century.Among the early Saigon settlers were a sizable number of Chinese migrants. They originated from China’s southern coastal regions, running away from the miseries of their war-torn country. In 1679 there occurred a great migration of 3,000 persons in 50 warships headed by two generals under the defunct Ming Dynasty: Duong Ngan Dich and Tran Thuong Xuyen. A large part of these emigrants settled in and cultivated the land in the South’s eastern region, Bien Hoa and Saigon. The city of Cholon was built with the contribution from these ethnic Chinese groups as they were being integrated into the ethnic communities of Vietnam.
The first 75 years
In 1998, Saigon-Ho Chi Minh City celebrated its 300th anniversary, but the period of the 75 years between 1623 and 1698 may be regarded as the time in which Saigon was founded. During this period, hundreds, and perhaps thousands of Vietnamese families migrated from the Center (the Inner Section) and the North (the Outer Section) to settle in the plains of the Dong Nai and the Mekong rivers. Saigon at that time already was booming with agricultural production, trading businesses, and handicrafts, enriching the prosperous customs tax office. Yet, all those peaceful economic activities were interrupted quite a few times.In 1698, which is 19 years since the building of the garrison citadel and 75 years since the establishment of the customs tax collection office, the Nguyen Lord ordered Grand Mandarin Nguyen Huu Kinh (known also as Nguyen Huu Canh) to inspect the South, formalizing the control of this region. At that time some 20,000 Vietnamese were settled in the Saigon area. They probably made up one-third of the Vietnamese population inhabiting the Dong Nai River basin. Nguyen Huu Kinh had an earth rampart built from the lower Thi Nghe Rivulet to Rach Cat to protect the northwestern and southwestern parts of Saigon; the northeastern and southeastern sides already were protected by the Thi Nghe Rivulet, the Tan Binh and the Saigon rivers.From that time, “Saigon” was the name of the area enclosed between the watercourses and the 8,000 or 9,000-meter-long earth rampart.
NGUYEN HUU CANH, the founder of Saigon-HCM City
Nguyen Huu Canh (1650-1700), was a famous army commander and an excellent administrator. He is credited for expanding our territories to the south and laying foundations for the city of Saigon-Ho Chi Minh City.Nguyen Huu Canh was born in the year of the Tiger, 1650, in a village in what is nowadays Chuong Tin Commune, Phong Loc District of Quang Binh Province. According to researchers, one of his ancestors was Dinh Quoc Cong (Duke) Nguyen Bac, a famous general under King Dinh Tien Hoang. Nguyen Huu Canh was also a descendant of Vietnam’s most illustrious politician: Nguyen Trai. Canh’s father was Chieu Vu Hau (Earl) Nguyen Huu Dat, a noted general who had helped the Nguyen Lord in the struggle against the Trinh Lord in the Dang Ngoai (Outer Section or North Vietnam).Growing up during the Trinh - Nguyen War, Nguyen Huu Canh spent all his time in the practice of martial arts so that he would be able to join his father in his military campaigns. Though still young, Canh had won many battles and was promoted by Lord Nguyen Phuc Tan to Cai Co, a high-ranking army officer’s rank, when he was in his twenties.In 1681, his father died; he and his elder brother, Nguyen Huu Hao, succeeded their father as army commanders. In his manners and relations with people Nguyen Huu Canh was serious and careful; therefore he was well respected. In 1692, relations at the border of Vietnam and Champa turned to strife. Ba Tranh, the king of Champa, led his armies to attack Dien Ninh, a district of today’s Phu Yen Province. By order of Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu, Nguyen Huu Canh fought the attackers and chased them out. He named the new land Tran (district) Thuan Thanh and became the district’s first governor.After he had pacified the region, Canh drew up programs of reclaiming land for farming, restoring social order, and stabilizing the livelihood of the people in Thuan Thanh District. The district quickly prospered.At the beginning of the Mau Dan year (the year of the Tiger, 1698), Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu again sent Nguyen Huu Canh, now promoted to Grand Mandarin, to inspect the South, write the civil code, set up legal rule, and determine territorial borders. Nguyen Huu Canh and his troops sailed off to the south and went upstream on the Dong Nai River to arrive at Cu Lao Pho (Pho Island), the region’s largest and busiest river port at that time. Nguyen Huu Canh inspected the area of Saigon and set up two administrative offices in Phuoc Long and Tan Binh districts. These administrative agencies, the first in South Vietnam, were under the rule of Gia Dinh County. Trinh Hoai Duc in the Gia Dinh Chronicle wrote: “The land was extended by over one thousand miles and population increased by 40,000 families.” Nguyen Huu Canh posted several bureaus in charge of the administration such as the Ky Luc (in charge of administrative affairs and tax), the Luu Thu (military), and Cai Bo (justice). Xa Ty (public servants) and some army units were engaged in the service of the mandarins. As for the Chinese ethnic people, Nguyen Huu Canh organized special administrative units like the Thanh Ha Commune (Tran Bien), and the Minh Huong Commune (Phien Tran). He also recruited volunteers from the population for his programs of reclaiming land and building hamlets in remote areas.In the book Stories Of Dai Nam’s Celebrities (first edition, volume 1) it was noted that “Nguyen Huu Canh had recruited migrant people from Bo Chanh (Quang Binh Province) to the south for reclaiming land (in Tran Bien and Phien Tran); he then ordered the building of communes and hamlets, fixed tax rates and drew up rolls of taxpayers.” Thus, the border of Vietnam was extended to this area. In 1700, Nguyen Huu Canh led his army to the area that is today’s southwestern border of Vietnam. Thanks to his prestige he quickly pacified the troubled area. However, Nguyen Huu Canh fell gravely sick some time later and died, at the age of 50.Nguyen Huu Canh was a good army commander who had been using his talent and virtue to placate people. He has contributed a great part in the southward march of our people; he brought prosperity to the people. Therefore, he was well respected, much thanked, and adored by the people. Nowadays, temples honoring Le Thanh Hau (Earl) Nguyen Huu Canh exist in many localities. The biggest of these are in An Giang, Dong Nai and Quang Binh provinces. There also is a temple venerating Nguyen Huu Canh in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
From Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City
President Ho Chi Minh once said: “The southern region is the flesh and blood of Vietnam. Rivers may be shallow, mountains may be eroded, but the truth will never change.”The truth proves that Vietnam was formed through a long time of reclamation of land from the sea and forests, expansion and defense of our ancestors; it also expresses the struggle against foreign invaders who wanted to separate the southern region, including HCM City, from Vietnam.

Long ago, when first arriving in the land around Saigon that they called Gia Dinh, and settling in the entire southern region, the settlers always looked toward the capital, now Hanoi, but formerly called Thang Long:Since the days of bringing swords southward to expand the country,The South has longed for Thang Long (Rising Dragon)!In 1859, the French colonialists occupied Saigon and the southern region. From the South, they expanded their invasion in the whole country. Under French rule, Vietnam was divided into three regions, with three different policies. The northern region was a protectorate, the central region was governed by a Vietnamese king and French special envoy, and the southern region was a colony.Politically, the invaders suppressed all resistance movements and controlled the circulation among the three regions. Economically, they invested only in fields that benefited their homeland; they maintained monopolies of salt, liquor and opium. Socially, they promoted backward habits of the feudalism and carried out obscurantism; up to 90% of Vietnamese people were illiterate at that time.The French invaders paid closer attention to the southern region in general and Saigon in particular. They tried to turn Saigon into the “Pearl of the Far East” with a view to boast their colonial civilization policy. The entire southern region had only one Vietnamese representative in France’s Parliament.Under the French occupation, people organized many patriotic movements to struggle against the invaders in spite of the Nguyen dynasty’s attitude of weakly accepting the situation. All the patriotic movements against invasion, namely the resistance wars led by Thu Khoa Huan, Truong Cong Dinh and Nguyen Trung Truc in the southern region; the struggles led by Phan Dinh Phung and Tong Duy Tan in the central region; and the resistance wars led by Hoang Hoa Tham and Nguyen Thien Thuat in the northern region; were local, without coordination by way of help for one another.Later, though the movements calling for freeing Phan Boi Chau or mourning Phan Chu Trinh – two patriotic scholars – and the resistance war launched by Vietnam Kuomintang in Yen Bai in 1930 were larger, they ended in failure.Only after Nguyen Tat Thanh (President Ho Chi Minh later) left Saigon’s Nha Rong Port in 1911 for Europe, witnessed the success of Russia’s October Revolution, which opened a new era with Lenin’s theses on people and colonial powers, and then brought back and publicized Marxism-Leninism during the formation of Vietnam’s working class and the Communist Party, that nation-building and national liberation got on the right path.The unification congress on February 3, 1930, presided over by President Ho Chi Minh, saw the establishment of the Vietnam Communist Party and the blueprint of the fight against invasion, and feudalism, and for national liberation, land allocation to farmers, and the building of socialism. These policies and mechanisms paved the way for the success of Vietnam’s revolution despite all the difficulties and sacrifice.After the Party’s establishment, the Party Central Committee was based in Saigon during the 1930-1940 period. After the Southern Region Revolution, the central committee was moved to Hanoi. Under the Party’s command, the revolution was started throughout the country, the peak of which was the Xo Viet Nghe Tinh movement in the 1930-1931 period. The movement called for people’s welfare and democracy, anti-Fascism, and struggles in Saigon and Hanoi. The revolution rose to another peak in the 1939-1945 period when the Party prepared all forces and facilities for its opportunity. When World War II ended, with the unconditional surrender of the Fascists to the Allies, the Party launched a resistance war countrywide. Under the leadership of the Party and President Ho Chi Minh, the people took the opportunity to seize political power within 12 days (from August 14 to 25), despite heavy losses after the Southern Region Revolution. This is a legendary story for a backward and separated country under foreign occupation.The August Revolution was a milestone for the history of the country. The revolution completely destroyed the colonialist and feudal regime, and put an end to its separation policy. It helped set up the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, turning the Vietnamese from slaves to owners of the country, and the Party to the political power holder.The August Revolution created a uniform government for the entire country, making it a stepping stone for the resistance wars against French and American invaders. Internationally, the French Government had to recognize this revolutionary government through a preliminary agreement signed on March 6, 1946, and a temporary treaty signed on September 14, 1946, at the Fontainebleau Conference, where President Ho Chi Minh was invited as a VIP.However, after the August Revolution, Vietnam encountered such difficulties as illiteracy, hunger and invasion. In the North, 200,000 Chinese soldiers entered the country, while British soldiers entered the South to take over Japanese soldiers who had surrendered. All of them hated the revolutionary government and managed to eliminate it. The British forces also helped the French colonialists to reoccupy Vietnam. When France was still ruled by German soldiers, the French Government claimed that it would manage to recover Indochina.In this context, 28 days after the Saigon people seized political power, on September 23, 1945, French invaders occupied Saigon again and the whole southern region, as a step to invading the entire country. They established an “autonomous” Southern Region, with a puppet government, Saigon being the capital, aiming to repeat what they did nearly 100 years before.The Central Government, led by President Ho Chi Minh, followed the Independence Proclamation announced by President Ho on September 2, 1945:“All peoples in the world were born equal; every people has the right to live, be happy and enjoy liberty…”“The people, who have bravely fought the French invasion over the past 80 years, and who have bravely supported the Allies to fight Fascism, must live independently…”“Vietnam has the right to enjoy freedom and independence, and it is really a country of liberty and independence. All Vietnamese people are determined to use all their spirit, facilities, lives and property to protect liberty and independence.”The people in Saigon and the southern region began to fight French invaders with all kinds of rudimentary weapons, ready to risk their lives instead of being occupied, starting the 30-year resistance war to protect their independence and reunification.The Party Central Committee and the Government led by President Ho Chi Minh also appealed: “All for the resistance war and the southern front.” Northern and northern Central provinces sent many groups to the South. The Central Committee ordered 2,000 political prisoners, who had just freed from Con Dao Island, to stay in the southern region to assist the resistance forces there. Ton Duc Thang, Le Duan, Pham Hung and Le Van Luong were among these prisoners.As the French military force was so strong, it expanded the occupation from Saigon to many southern localities. On February 27, 1946, President Ho Chi Minh appealed to southern soldiers and people to continue the struggle, granting them the glorious title of “Fatherland’s Iron Bulwark.”The resistance war of the people in Saigon and the southern region aimed to delay the French invasion process for the Central Government to have enough time to push Chinese soldiers back into their own homeland, hold talks with the French Government, and prepare forces for a long-term resistance war against the French invaders.The war broke out, with the main battlefields in the North. People and soldiers in Saigon and the southern region boosted their guerrilla warfare to cause more losses for the enemy, enabling the Government to launch a series of big military operations, especially the historic victory of Dien Bien Phu. Although busy with the main battlefields, the Government paid close attention to those battlefields in the southern region and regularly sent soldiers and weapons there.With the Dien Bien Phu victory and the Geneva Treaty (1954), half of Vietnam from latitude 17 northward was liberated. The South was still occupied, waiting for a general election for national reunification two years later.But U.S. imperialists then entered to replace French colonialists, aiming at a long-term occupation in the South, with a puppet government following a new type of colonialism, and Saigon was chosen as the capital of South Vietnam (from latitude 17 southward). Therefore, the South became the frontline and the North the rear. The resistance war against American invasion lasted for 21 years.The North carried out the “All for the frontline, all for defeating U.S. imperialists and the puppet government” slogan set by the Central Committee and President Ho Chi Minh. Many campaigns for the South were launched in the North. Almost every family in the North had at least one member participating in liberating the South.Despite hardships and sacrifice, people and soldiers in Saigon and the southern region always looked to the North and President Ho, firmly confident of final victory. The South was worried when American invaders bombed the North, especially Hanoi and Haiphong with giant B52 aircraft at the end of 1972. The South strengthened the resistance war to help the North, and southern people were very glad to see the triumph of people and soldiers in Hanoi in their fight against U.S. air raids.The entire country fought, and nothing could stop Vietnamese from struggling for national independence, liberty and reunification. Finally, the war ended in victory. On April 30, 1975, Saigon and the entire southern region were liberated. The liberation was welcomed by all people in the country and by people in every country.The country has been unified after years of resistance war against French and American invaders. From Saigon, Uncle Ho had found a way out for the people and the country. He wished to visit Saigon and the southern region, and the beloved people, but his wish could not be fulfilled. He died in 1969.In 1976, after the reunification, the National Assembly unanimously decided to rename Saigon-Cholon-Gia Dinh as Ho Chi Minh City. The city is worth bearing the name of the beloved president, who founded the Communist Party, army, front and revolutionary government, and who led the people and the country to a glorious victory. Bearing the name of Uncle Ho is a big honor for the city, but it also requires high responsibility for building and protecting the country.Since liberation, HCM City has contributed a great deal to socialist and national construction and defense. Politburo’s Resolution 01 (1982) stipulates that HCM City has a political position just behind Hanoi, the capital. It is endowed with favorable conditions that cannot be found elsewhere. It has great potential for developing industry, exports, tourism and services. In coordination with other localities, HCM City is forming an agro-industrial economic structure for the country’s socio-economic development.HCM City has contributed a great deal to the country, particularly in terms of economy. On the road to industrialization and modernization on the threshold of the 21st century, HCM City has connected with Dong Nai, Ba Ria-Vung Tau and Binh Duong provinces to form a focal economic hub. It has also cooperated with the Mekong Delta provinces, the rice basket of the country; the southwestern provinces and the Central Highlands, with forestry potentials; and the central and northern provinces. HCM City is one of the country’s biggest venues to attract foreign direct investment. It is trying to become a sizable tourism and service center.In the effort to achieve integration with the economies of Southeast Asia, and with those of the rest of the world, HCM City has been trying to contribute its part to the common cause. As part of the unified country, HCM City strives to realize the tasks set by the resolution of the 9th Party Congress, contributing its part to national construction and defense to be worthy of a city bearing the name of Uncle Ho.( 300 years of Saigon-HCM City – Chinh Tri Quoc Gia Publishing House )
RESOLUTION By the National Assembly of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, 6th tenure, 1st session, for officially renaming Saigon-Gia Dinh City as Ho Chi Minh City.The National Assembly of the Socialist Republic of VietnamConsidering the boundless love of the people of Saigon-Gia Dinh City for President Ho Chi Minh and their wish for the city to be named after him;Considering the long and difficult revolutionary struggle launched in Saigon-Gia Dinh City, with several glorious feats, deserves the honor of being named after President Ho Chi Minh;After discussing the suggestion of the Presidium of the National Assembly’s meeting;Decides to rename Saigon-Gia Dinh City as Ho Chi Minh City.
Hanoi, July 2, 1976P.p. the Presidium,Truong Chinh( 20 Years of HCM City )

BAC GIANG


Bac Giang is proud to be a province with a long history, rich culture and full of revolutionary traditions. Bac Giang used to be the living place of the ancient Vietnamese about ten thousands years ago. Tracing back to the history of the country, Bac Giang would be considered as the fence of the country, and one of the four essential frontier passages of our country, that is famous for glorious feats of arms which have been recorded in the history against foreign invaders of our nation.
Since the re-establishment (on January 1, 1997) of its party, authority and the people of Bac Giang have started the building of their province with great enthusiasm. Bac Giang people have inherited and brought into play the union and revolutionary traditions of our country to overcome difficulties and bring about positive changes in socio-economic areas. Economically, there have been many positive changes. The annual growth of the provincial GDP during the years 1997- 2000 was 6.9 percent, in which agriculture increased by 7.2 percent, heavy industry by 3.8 percent, service by 6.3 percent. The provincial GDP in the 2001-2004 period expanded 8.3% a year, of which the agricultural, forestry and fisheries sector as a share of GDP rose 5.05%, the industrial sector was up 19.79%, and the service sector bounced 7.09%.Social infrastructure has been improved and investment has been prioritised in accordance with the local development. People’s income has increased considerably, the ratio of hunger and poverty households has been reduced from 23.9 percent in 1997 to 9.87 percent in 2000 (according to the old definition) and to nearly 10% in 2004 (according to current criteria)Culture, education and some other social areas have also been improved greatly with a great variety of activities and achievements. Political and social security within the locality has been maintained. With those achievements Bac Giang seems to be fully prepared for the new 21st century.At the beginning of the 2001 - 2005 period, Bac Giang has decided that they should bring into full play their potential, their advantages to attract as much external forces as possible to develop their socio-economy. In the new stage, Bac Giang will have some advantages, for instance, transportation is much more convenient nowadays including railway, road way, and also river route, all seem to be in fairly good conditions, which helps facilitate their connection with Hanoi, Hai Phong, and Quang Ninh.
The province;s potential of land and human resources is very abundant. Material facilities, technical basis and infrastructure have all been improved. The economic restructuring has gained much progress, economic sectors both private and public seem to have a fairly promising future. Changes in the State owned enterprises via enterprises; renovation, equitisation have strengthened State economic sector.
However, besides those mentioned advantages, Bac Giang also has to confront with many challenges, namely, industry density is still low as this province is a mountainous area with purely agricultural economy. Their development and accumulation for investment is very limited. The economic and employment structure has changed fairly slowly. International relation as well as attraction of external investment has not been very successful.Given the current situation and requirements for the new development stage, provincial Party Resolution 15 (2001) has identified as their priority to invest into socio-economic areas, namely:
1. To develop agriculture and rural areas so as to achieve industrialization and modernization goals.
2. To promote investment for industry, small scale industry and services so as to speed up the economic restructuring.
3. To mobilize different sources of capital for physical development, socio-economic infrastructure so as to ensure social development.
4. To encourage international economic development, to create priority policy so as to promote economic sectors (both domestic and international) to invest into the province and to establish business relationship and have experience exchanges with the province.
5. To speed up education and training, and technology development so as to produce fruitful personnel resources, highly qualified and efficient for the provincial development.
6. To promote the development of ethnic people as well as their socio-economy so as to attain bigger progress and assurance of minority people;s development.
7. To enhance the administrative renovation so as to improve the efficiency and quality of State management at various levels.
Resolution of the XV Party Congress has also initiated 6 programmes specifying the above mentioned essential tasks, at the same time assigned responsibility to different managerial levels, branches so as to make sure that local people and provincial counter-parts fully aware of Bac Giang approach to development. We acknowledge that the up coming tasks are difficult and require considerable internal forces as well as assistance from the outside.
Bac Giang Party secretary
Nguyen Quoc Cuong

Natural condition and Social
Location: some 50km to the north of Ha Noi Capital, 100km to the south of Huu Nghi (Friendship) International Border-gate, and more than 100km to the east of Hai Phong Port. Bac Giang Province borders Lang Son Province in the north and north-east, Ha Noi Capital and Thai Nguyen Province in the west and north-west, and Bac Ninh, Hai Duong and Quang Ninh provinces in the south and south-east.
Total area: 3,816.7sq.km
v Terrain: midlands (representing 10.5 percent) and highlands (making up 89.5 percent).
v Climate: Bac Giang lies in the tropical monsoon zone of the Northeast. Its weather is determined by four distinctive seasons: cold winter; hot, humid summer; and mild spring and autumn. Average annual temperature is 22-230C, and humidity ranges from 73% to 74%.
v Population & labor: The province’s population in 2005 was roughly 1.58 million, including 980,000 people of working age, accounting of 62% of the population, and 830,000 people engaged in economic activities. Of the working-age population, 8.86% work in the industrial and construction sector, 14.57% get involved in the service sector, and the remainder takes part in the agricultural, forestry and fishery sector.
v Ethnicities: Bac Giang is home to 27 ethnicities, of which ethnic minorities account for 123.9%.
v Infrastructure: The transport system is evenly distributed and convenient, including road, railway and riverway. The road network is comprised of National Highway 1A, provincial roads, district’s and communal roads with a combined length of 4,008 km. Of these, the National Highway includes five routes, with a total length of 277.5 km. The provincial road encompasses 18 routes (387.5 km in length). The district’s roads have 54 routes (469.5 km in length). The inter-communal roads are 2,874 km long. Road density is 0.3 km per sq. km in plains, midlands and mountainous areas. However, the roads’ quality is generally low, with many routes not being upgraded and unasphalted, especially routes in mountainous areas, midlands and district’s and communal routes.
There are three large rivers in the province, namely Thuong River, Cau River, and Luc Nam River, with a combined length of 347 km (187 km currently under operation), creating a convenient riverway network. Annually, the river system provides a plentiful source of surface water with a reserve of hundred millions of cubic meters in service of living and production. Additionally, the province has three port systems, including central ports, specialized ports and local ports with a combined handling capacity of around 200 to 300 thousand tons.
Moreover, there are three rail routes (87 km in length) across Bac Giang, namely the routes of Ha Noi - Dong Dang (Lang Son Province), Ha Noi - Kep (Bac Giang Province) - Ha Long (Quang Ninh Province), Ha Noi - Kep - Luu Xa.
The provincial power source comes from the transmission line of 110 kV with a length of 220 km: Pha Lai (Hai Duong) - Bac Giang - Dong Anh (Hanoi), the intermediary station of Dinh Tram and the Bac Giang station (220 km-long transmission line), ensuring supplies of power for Bac Giang City, districts and industrial parks.
Overall, the province’s water system meets demand for fresh water in the city of Bac Giang. Particularly, 60 per cent of the population in the district’s towns and rural areas are accessible to fresh water.
v Land resource: Bac Giang’s natural land covers an area of 382,000 hectares, of which 77 per cent are in use. Also, the province has above 20,000 hectares of idle hilly and mountainous land, which is a great potential for businesses and investors to enter into a joint venture or partnership in afforestration, agricultural and forestry processing, and industrial development in the province.
v Economic structure: The economic growth of Bac Giang hit a five-year high of 9.3% in 2005. There is a positive transformation of the province’s economic structure. In particular, the share of agriculture, forestry and fishery fell to 43.5% in 2005 from 45% in 2004. In contrast, the proportion of industry and construction rose from 20.5% in 2004 to 22% in 2005. Services made up of 34.5% of the provincial GDP.
v Population’s life: GDP per capita averages VND 4.8 million a year. The rate of poor households is 30.67% under new standards. Farmers’ income in rural areas is estimated at over VND 26 million per hectare under cultivation. Electricity, communication, healthcare and education are in place in almost 229 communes, wards and townships.

Saturday, 19 July 2008

HOI AN

Hoi An pronunciation is a small city on the coast of the South China Sea in the South Central Coast of Vietnam. It is located in the Quảng Nam province and is home to approximately 88,000 inhabitants.
The city possessed the largest harbour in Southeast Asia in the 1st Century and was known as Lâm Ấp Phố (Champa City).
The former harbour town of the Champa people at the estuary of the Thu Bon river was an important Vietnamese trading centre in the 16th and 17th centuries, where Chinese from various provinces as well as Japanese, Dutch and Indians settled down. During this period of the China trade, the town was called Hai Pho (Seaside Town) in Vietnamese. Originally Hai Pho was a divided town, because across the "Japanese Bridge", it used to be the Japanese settlement (16th-17th century). The bridge (Chùa cầu) is a unique covered structure built by the Japanese, the only known covered bridge with a Buddhist pagoda attached to one side.
The town is known to the French and Spanish as Faifo, and by similar names in Portuguese and Dutch. A number of theories have been put forth as to the origin of this name. Some scholars have suggested that it comes from the word "hải-phố" (海浦) meaning "sea town", while others have said that it seems more likely to simply be a shortening of Hội An-phố (會安浦), "the town of Hoi An", to "Hoi-pho" which became "Faifo".
In 1999, the old town was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO as a well-preserved example of a Southeast Asian trading port of the 15th to 19th centuries, whose buildings display a unique blend of local and foreign influences.
Today, Hội An is still a small city, but it attracts a fair number of tourists, also being a well established place on the backpacker trail. Many visit for the numerous art and craft shops and tailors, who produce made-to-measure clothes for a fraction of the western price. Several Internet cafés, bars and restaurants have opened along the riverfront. Some popular evening venues, especially with Western visitors, are Tam Tam's restaurant and bar, the Before and Now bar on Le Loi, the Mango restaurant as well as the Salsa on the other side of the river.Hoi An is famed for its centuries old Cao Lau noodle, which can only be uniquely served here.

Retrieved from : Wikipedia




Nha Trang City




The city of Nha Trang is becoming more popular with the tourists in recent years. Yet, with a population of 300,000, Nha Trang still retains its small town atmosphere. This resort town is well known for its miles of beach and the friendliness of its people. The city is flanked by nearly ten kilometers of prime beach where the water is warm year round. The average temperature in Nha Trang is 26 C. Nha Trang also has the lowest level of humidity in all of Vietnam. Today, Nha Trang ranks among the top of all beaches in Vietnam. Nha Trang is 1,287 km south of Hanoi, 624 km south of Hue and 442 km from Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon). Nha Trang has several famous islands. Most notable are Hon Tre, Hon Yen, Hon Rua and the Spratly islands. The name Nha trang is a Vietnamese pronunciation of a Cham word Eatran or Yjatan. Ea or Yja means river, and tran means reed. According to the locals, there once were a lot of reeds along Ngoc Hoi river. The river winds its way through the town. Ngoc Hoi was later renamed Nha Trang river. Another theory of the origin of Nha Trang's name has a more amusing twist. Long ago, in this part of the country, all the houses were made out of the reeds and mud gathered from Ngoc Hoi river. The only house that was made out of bricks were the house belonging to Dr. Yersin, a French immunologist who made his home here. The house itself was painted prominently white and could be seen by vessels coming from far away. Once there was a foreign vessel passing by. The captain asked his translator where he was. The translator not knowing where they were blurted out Nha` tra('ng or white house in Vietnamese. The captain duly noted on his chart Nha Trang. Because most foreign languages do not make use of tones, the captain's name for this part of the country stuck.


On the way to Nha Trang

From Saigon going northeast on highway 1 to Nha Trang, the road is extremely bouncy. The trip will take between 9-10 hours. On the way, the two major cities are Phan Rang and Phan Thiet. Both cities are small in size, however, Phan Thiet is very famous for its nuoc mam - fish sauce industry.
The next famous site before reaching Nha Trang is Cana beach. This stretch of beautiful white sand is a beautiful beach with a few restaurants; it is a popular rest area for travellers coming from the South.



There are many Thanh Long (Green Dragon fruit) orchards along the highway leading to Nha-Trang. This fruit is known to grow only in this region and has become popular only in recent years.

Nha Trang City Beach


Upon arriving to Nha Trang, most tourists will pass through downtown. Beyond the rows of businesses and homes will be Nha Trang beach. Tran Phu Boulevard is Nha Trang most famous thoroughfare. It runs the length of the beach with several major hotels located within a few steps from the beach. Unlike most major city in Vietnam where the primary mode of transportation is the motorbike, many people of Nha Trang still walk or use the bicycle as their means of getting around. This adds to the tranquillity of the town. There is very little pollution or noise from motor vehicles.


On any given day, between 5:00 am to 8:00 am Nha Trang beach is filled with local people taking in the fresh sea breeze, socializing, playing soccer, badminton or practicing Tai chi. Most people in Nha Trang fear being darken by the sun. For this reason, the window between 5-8 am (where sunlight is less intense) is peaked with activities. Another reason is that many go to the ocean for a morning swim, to exercise and to listen to daily news (from the many conspicuously placed loud speakers on electrical poles). In Nha Trang, going to the beach is a family affair. One often see generations of families going to the beach together. However, by 8:00 am the beach is magically emptied of all the hustle and bustle of earlier activities to once again return to silence and serenity




Hon Chong

Chong has two meanings in the Vietnamese language. The first is to stack. The second is husband. Hon Chong is located on a stretch of rocky mass of land famous for the thousands of smooth rocks stacking on one another. There are two clusters of such rocks in the area called Hon Chong. The first is further out in the ocean and the second is located near an islet called Sat Thon. The cluster in the ocean is most impressive since there are large boulders stacking on one another seemingly out-of-balance, yet remaining stable.

There is a boulder as large as a small hill supporting another boulder as large as a small house at its peak. On the side facing the shore, there is an imprint of a large hand with five fingers clearly outlined. The locals call this rock Hon Chong or the Husband.

Thap Ba (Po Nagar Cham Towers)

The Po Nagar towers once stood at the entrance of Cai river, where the river meets the ocean. The towers stood in isolation on a rock foundation, but over many years the towers and the land it stands on became part of the land mass as the river changed its flows.

Today, the tower is north of the river and the rock formation it stood on became known as nui Cu Lao or Mount Cu Lao. The town of Vinh Phuoc at the base of the mountain was once a fishing village, known as Xom Chai and Xom Bong.


Po Nagar towers complex was built between the 7th and 12th century. The most beautiful towers were built in the year 813 and 817. Most were destroyed and only four towers are still standing. Each tower is a shrine to a different deity.

One tower is the shrine to Xiva, one of three most powerful deities in Hinduism. One tower is dedicated to Ganexa, the son of Xiva. This deity has a human body and an elephant head. Po Nagar is the tallest tower, also known as Thap Ba (Tower of the Lady). Po Nagar or Uma is the wife of Xiva the supreme. Po Nagar towers stands 23m in height and was built around 817.


Bricks were used in the building of Po Nagar. The four-sided structure is topped by a pyramid with a statue of the four armed Xiva riding Nandin the enchanted ox at the apex. The exterior of the tower is covered by intricate rock carvings of dancers, people rowing boats, grinding rice or hunting with bows and arrows.
The interior is airy and cool. An alter made of granite is placed at the base of the statue of Po Nagar. Po Nagar is a goddess with ten arms. She is also the goddess credited for her help with teaching people how to farm. Her statue was originally made out of hard incense wood. The statue was removed by the French in 1946. A new statue with more Vietnamese features is its replacement. The Po Nagar towers complex is an example of Chams architecture and art at its height.



Cau Da

Vietnam's first active Oceanographic Institute was built in 1922 at Cau Da (Rock Bridge). The ocean in Nha Trang is quite deep. Here the water is approximately 200 m deep. Beyond 100 km, the depth drops to 2000 m. The Oceanographic Institute was built to study the diverse marine life in this area.
The Institute still has samples of sea creatures of this area. Although the institute does not have the modern equipments and facilities to be considered in the same caliber as most western aquariums, it still maintains a fair sample in smaller aquariums. In all, 23 good size aquariums are on display. The institute also has a vast collection of dead samples on display.

Hon Yen

Hon Yen is most famous for Yen Sao which is the name of the nest of Salangane or swifts. The locals harvest the bird nests (considered a delicacy) used in soups. These nests are processed and exported to Taiwan and Hong Kong. The birds build their nest high on the walls of the cave on the islands. To access the nests, harvesters must climb on ladders fashioned from bamboo. Because the caves must remain dark lest the birds are scared off, many climbers fall to their death every year trying to harvest the nests. The bird nest comes in two types, white and red nests. The nest are fashioned by the Salangane that make their homes in caves. The nest are made out of the birds saliva. Usually, a typical bird creates one nest a year during springtime using both parents saliva.
Because there is such a demand for their nest (thought to have medicinal qualities), the locals began to remove the nest several times a year causing the birds to have to continue producing the nests. The red variety of nests are a result of the birds having to create so much saliva for the new nests that they cough up blood along with their saliva causing the nest to take on the red color of their blood. This variety of nest costs their weight in gold or more in the retail market of Hong Kong or Taiwan


HUE


















Program Description Friends of Hue Foundation is a 501(c)(3) charitable, non-profit tax-exempt, non-governmental organization (NGO/INGO). The primary mission of the foundation is to provide assistance to impoverished people and victims of natural disasters in Thua Thien Hue province of Central Vietnam. All staff and Board members of the Friends of Hue Foundation in the United States serve as unpaid volunteers. Federal Tax ID #77-0543081.
Mission To provide long-term assistance in economic self-sufficiency, health care, education and emergency relief for victims of natural disasters in Thua Thien Hue and nearby areas in Central Vietnam. The assistance projects are diverse, efficient and flexible to accommodate changing needs over time. FHF hopes to later expand services to other neighboring provinces as funding allows.
Why Hue? Hue is Vietnam’s de facto “third capital” due to its historical linkages and geographical location. However, due to its rugged terrain and inhospitable climate, Hue has not been seen as an ideal place for large scale manufacturing and aggressive economic development. This results in less economic opportunities to its inhabitants producing more than its fair share of people living in poverty. Hanoi to the north and Saigon to the south are both political and economic capitals, respectively, and have also received the bulk of attention from NGOs/INGOs. Hue also falls short in this respect. Currently, FHF is the only officially registered, US-based INGO with a physical presence to providing services in Thua Thien Hue Province.
History of Operations in Viet Nam FHF was officially founded in May 2000, for the purpose of assisting victims of the November 1999 flood, in central Vietnam, especially at Thua Thien Hue Province. This natural disaster is the worst to hit this region in the 20th century. After surveying the damage in this area, the United Nations Development Programs and local authorities confirmed that the victims of the flood will need assistance for at least 10 years before they can return to a normal existence.

In September 2000, a group of FHF's representatives, at their own expense, visited Thua Thien Hue to start a long term assistance program. The group included Professor James Freeman, Ms. Dang Thi Lieu, volunteer Nguyen Trung Tomiko M.D. and Mr. Nguyen Dinh Huu. Vietnamese officials authorized FHF to set up an office in Hue City to pursue the foundation’s charitable activities.
Initial projects Free health care check up and medicines to 2,100 patients in Phu An Commune, Thuy Thanh commune and Phu Binh Quarter of Hue city;
Emergency cash donations to 159 households in Phu An commune, which had been seriously affected by the great 1999 flood;
Small interest-free loans to 25 poor households in Phu Hau quarter
Began the process of building a shelter for orphans and disadvantaged children in Hue City
Current ProjectsTwo principles put forth by our founder Huu Dinh Nguyen:
(1) “Treat the children under your care as if they were your own.”
(2) “The protection and welfare of children should be the first priority of people and agencies entrusted with their care.”
Our primary activity is the support of seriously disadvantaged children, who live at the Xuan Phu Children’s Shelter in Hue, which we built. Some of these children are orphans; others come from homes with one parent, with families that often are at the margins of hunger and extreme privation. At the shelter, the children receive lodging, food, medical treatment, and educational expenses. Our staff members at the shelter provide a safe and loving but also disciplined and enriching environment in which each child is encouraged to do his or her best. Your donations provide more than just physical maintenance. It is an investment in their lives and future. By providing loving care and guidance, education and job skills, the Friends of Hue Foundation staff members in Vietnam give these children a chance in life. They acquire the values, discipline, and skills they need to succeed and contribute to their society. Your assistance is significant, for it comes at a time when these children need it most. Thank you for helping these children.

Children:
- Built and operate a children's shelter for orphans, children in poverty and victims of natural disasters
- Built and operate a Vocational Center for skills, job trainings and job placement: ESL, Informatics/Computer Literacy, industrial sewing
- Cattle Raising Program - giving incentives to poor families so their children can remain in school
Health:
- Mobile clinic program: medical team visits remote rural areas monthly to provide free health care
- Reconstructive surgery (in co-operation with Hue Central Hospital) - Heart Surgery

Education:
- Build elementary classrooms in rural areas and remote villages
- Scholarship, assistance for payment of school fees, books, clothing and vocational training
Microfinance:
- Small short term interest-free loans to local entrepreneurs for every thing from street vending, to small businesses and to support animal husbandry, aqua culture, and small farming activities.
Board of Directors Nguyen Dinh Huu, MSW, Co-Founder
Dr. James M Freeman, Ph.D; Co-Founder
Dang Thi Lieu, Co-Founder, Co-Treasurer

Nguyen Tran To Uyen, MS/MBA; Chairwoman, Board of Directors
Jenny Do, Esq., Co-Executive Director
Dan Do, Esq., Co-Executive Director
Sandy Dinh, Co-Treasurer

Nguyen Van Van, Gold Level Donor

Dr. Nguyen Van Thien, MD, Member, Board of Advisors
Dr. Phuoc Le, MD, Member, Board of Advisors

Luong Thien Nhien, MA; Member, Board of Directors
Michelle Mai, MA, Member, Board of Directors
Nguyen Ai-Minh, Esq.; Member, Board of Directors
Arthur Bao, MA; Member, Board of Directors

Project Coordinators:
Mobile Clinic - Thien-Nhien Luong
Economic Self-Sufficiency - Dang Thi Lieu
Corrective Surgery - Nguyen T.T. Uyen
Children's Shelter - Jenny Do
Vocational Center - Arthur Bao

Newsletter:
Dan Do, Jenny Do, Thien Nhien Luong, Cindy Lam, Arthur Bao, Annabel Nguyen

Webmaster:
Arthur Bao


Board Bios Huu Dinh Nguyen

Mr. Nguyen Dinh Huu is also affectionately known as Uncle or “Bac” Huu. His vision constantly guides us as we continue to make his goal of the protection and care of vulnerable children a reality. For over 25 years, Bac Huu assisted vulnerable children in the United States, refugee camps in Southeast Asia and Hong Kong, and now in central Vietnam. In refugee camps, he saw the terrible conditions under which unaccompanied minors were living, and saw how badly they fared when thousands of them were repatriated to Vietnam. This inspired him to set up projects for their assistance, including our highly successful shelter in the Xuan Phu neighborhood of Hue City in central Vietnam.
His self-less dedication and fervent believe that the children should be treated "as if they were our own" is the compass needle which steers our Board, staff and volunteers in the right direction in face of adversity. Whether challenges in fundraising or dealing with red tape at the local or regional levels.

James M. Freeman

Co-Founder and former Chairman of the Board James M. Freeman, (Ph.D. Harvard) was Chair of the Board of Directors of Friends of Hue Foundation from 2000-2006. He is an Emeritus Professor of Anthropology at San Jose State University, a former Fellow of the Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences at Stanford, winner of an American Book Award for Hearts of Sorrow: Vietnamese-American Lives, and co-author, with FHF Founder Nguyen Dinh Huu, of Voices from the Camps: Vietnamese Children Seeking Asylum, which describes their assistance activities for unaccompanied minor children.


Lieu Thi Dang
Working with Huu Dinh Nguyen for over two decades has been a woman who is as remarkable as she is unassuming. Like Bac Huu, Miss Dang Lieu held a full-time job that involved assistance to refugees, and then in addition to that worked with Bac Huu on a variety of voluntary activities to assist the children in the camps and in Vietnam. But that is not all. The full scope of her voluntary assistance activities is simply stunning. It took those who know her years to discover this because this is a woman who does not talk about or promote herself; instead, she acts. The total number of children throughout the world who she has personally helped, though sponsorships, scholarships, and many other kinds of assistance numbers in the hundreds, or maybe more. In cities throughout America, in Australia and France, in Hue, Danang, and Saigon and other sites in Vietnam, there are adults who will tell you, “Dang Lieu, helped me when I was a child. It is thanks to her that I have succeeded in life.” Dr. James Freeman been with her in Vietnam and in the camps and have seen what this remarkable person does for those in need, and the impressions she has left on him are vivid and indelible. Miss Dang Lieu is one of the co-founders of the Friends of Hue Foundation, and this organization is infused with the spirit of her devotion to helping those in great need and inspiring them to press on, live successful lives, and then help others. Co Lieu has been there when the organization needed her, in many and varied ways. She is one of the pillars of the Friends of Hue Foundation and a significant contributor to its success. We wish to thank Co Lieu for all that she has done over the years, not simply for this organization, but for the hundreds of people who are indebted to her. In her retirement she still volunteers her time to teach Vietnamese "senior" citizens on how to pass the Citizenship exam so they could qualify for social security and medical benefits. She continues to be active as FHF's co-treasurer keeping the debit and credit columns correctly aligned and accounted.


Jenny Do
Littigation attorney by day, engaged artist and philanthropist by night, Jenny Do was recognized as 2007 Woman of the Year, a prestigious award bestowed by the California Legislature of District 23. The state legislature identified her as one of those rare individuals who made a difference not only in her local community but much further beyond.

Ms. Do is a successful littigator who gains the respect of clients and peers. She devotes her spare time as a founder of an art gallery and she also serves as a full time non-salaried Executive Director for the Friends of Hue Foundation, a nonprofit corporation that provides multiple services to the poor and disadvantaged people in the region of Thua Thien - Hue, Central Vietnam.

Locally, Jenny founded the Green Rice Gallery which provides a venue for Vietnamese-American artists. She curated many well-received exhibitions around the San Francisco and Greater Bay Area, such as Humans For Sale: A Photo Documentary, Traces of Hundred Viets, Insistence on Hope, Poetry Gate, and Metamorphosis, to name a few. These exhibitions are designed to promote Vietnamese American arts and culture, as well as to raise awareness on social issues that impede the advancement of the Vietnamese American community and other groups. Jenny has also sat on the City of San Jose's Arts Commission.

Ms. Do has participated in planning and organizing numerous fundraising events to support non-profit organizations and the arts. Jenny earned her Bachelor's of Arts degree from San Jose State University and her law degree from Lincoln Law School. She is an adjunct instructor at San Jose City College and a regular contributor to the Viet Tribune newspaper. She received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the City of San Jose in 2007 and the unsolicited Belle Foundation grant in 2005. Jenny's works and life story have been featured on the Oprah Winfrey show, Time-Warner Production and many other programs on national and local media.

Jenny Do has limitless energy. Between court preparations and litigation, her art and writing, she manages a 9 person staff and their programs in Vietnam on a daily basis. A gifted and creative fundraiser to keep the lives of 40 children half a world away realize their dreams and futures.


Uyen Nguyen

Uyen Nguyen has been an active Board member for the Friends of Hue Foundation since 2000, where she is now Chairman of the Board. She was born in Da Nang, Vietnam, but has lived most of her life in Saigon and California. Uyen decided to become a Board member of the Friends of Hue after being completely blown away by the dedication, passion, and drive exhibited by the FHF founders and Board members that she had met. Their compassion and devotion in helping others made her truly believe that the world can be made better by changing one life at a time.

In her day job, Uyen is the Head of Business Development of Mekong Capital, a private equity firm in Vietnam. She currently lives in Vietnam indefinitely, and is the first Chairman of the Board to live full-time in Vietnam.


Arthur Bao

Arthur Bao was born in Saigon during the Tet offensive to parents originally from Hue. Growing up in the US he quickly embraced the local culture and language at the expense of his Vietnamese heritage. Not until college did he finally embrace his cultural roots again by actively joining the Vietnamese Refugee Aid Committee and the Vietnamese Student Association.
Graduated from UCLA with a master in Urban Planning and Economic Development, Arthur had dreams of working with international development agencies in Vietnam after spending a couple of months there. This dream was quickly put aside when California's modern day Gold Rush in Silicon Valley beckoned. After a few years working in technology firms he felt something was missing and soon joined locally-based charities to raise funds for disaster relief in Vietnam. At the behest of a close UCLA alumnus and friend, Arthur eventually joined the Friends of Hue Foundation where he has served as a board member, Executive Director, Vice Chair and Chairman of the Board of Directors. He is currently happy to only serve as a volunteer and still dreaming of development work in this life time.


Michelle Mai

Michelle Mai was born and raised in Hue. She immigrated to the U.S. in 1990. She obtained her undergraduate degree in Psychology at San Francisco State University (SFSU) and her graduate degree in Psychology as well from the University of San Francisco (USF). Michelle has been a board member for FHF since 2006. She is currently working with people who are severely mentally ill in San Francisco and drug addicts in San Jose.

HA NOI CAPITAL











Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is a fascinating blend of East and West, with Chinese influence from centuries of dominance, and French design from its colonial past. It is largely unspoiled by modern architecture of the 1970s and 80s, and is now going through a modernization that is making it a rising star in Southeast Asia.
Understand
Invading forces from every direction agree: Hanoi makes a fine capital. It has held that title for more than a thousand years, through several invasions, occupations, restorations, and name changes. The Chinese conquered the imperial city of of Đại La in 1408 and renamed it Tống Bình. Le Loi repelled the invaders in 1428 and applied the name of Lê Thái Tổ (黎太祖); for his efforts, he received the crown and a slew of legends about his heroic exploits, many centered around the Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter. The Nguyen Dynasty gave the city its modern name of Ha Noi in 1831, but they had transferred power to Hue by then; it remained there until 1887, when the French made Hanoi the capital of all Indochina. It changed hands again in 1954, when it was ceded to Ho Chi Minh and the Viet Minh after almost a decade of fighting, and it became the capital of North Vietnam; upon reunification in 1975, it assumed that title for the entire country.
The first Western-style universities in Vietnam were founded in Hanoi, and today, it is the leading center of scientific study and research in the country. Hanoi retains much of its older colonial charm, despite the battles that have raged over it; conflict had the side effect of making it largely oblivious to modern architecture, and as a result, few buildings in the city center area are higher than five stories. The Old Quarter is second only to Hoi An for uninterrupted stretches of colonial and pre-colonial architecture, well-preserved on dense warrens of narrow, wonderfully atmospheric streets. It trades the commercial boom and sprawl of Ho Chi Minh City in the South for a more understated charm, worth enjoying for an extra day or two, and with countless transport options and travel agents, it makes a perfect base for exploration of the North.
The Tourist Information Center - tel: (84-4) 926 3366 - on Dinh Tien Hoang, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, can provide a fairly useful map (bewilderingly, the blow-up of the old town is missing making it useless in that part of town) and other English-language advice, as well as limited free Internet. They aren't completely without bias, however, and seem to support certain companies, for example An Phu Tour (bus company).
Get in
By plane
Most folks arrive at the Noi Bai International Airport, 35 km (45-60 minutes) north of the city. Several airlines run flights from Noi Bai, including:
Vietnam Airlines - 25 Tràng Thi (corner of Quang Trung) tel: (84-4)9349660 fax: (84-4)9349620- the primary national carrier
Pacific Airlines (tel: 84-4 9550550) - discount Vietnamese carrier
AirAsia (tel: +603 8660 4343) - low-cost airline with daily flights to Hanoi from both Bangkok in Thailand and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia
Cathay Pacific - upscale airline with flights to Hong Kong
Hong Kong Airlines - new carrier with daily flights to/from Hong Kong
Thai Airways International - two flights daily to/from Bangkok
Lao Airlines - small airline with 4 flights a week to/from Luang Prabang in Laos, also from Vientiane and from Phnom Penh
Nok Air - budget airline flies to/from Bangkok
Tiger Airways (tel: 84-4 9454565) - low-cost airline with daily flights to/from Singapore
From the airport
Taxis to downtown Hanoi can be hired at Noi Bai. The driver may try to deliver you to a hotel of his choice so he can collect a commission, but if you are specific about your destination, they usually give in. Taxis from the city centre to Noi Bai Airport charge a fixed rate of about US$14 to US$18 depending on the size of the taxi. However, it is cheaper if you pay in Dong, given the prevailing USD/VND exchange rate.
Public buses to the city center from Noi Bai airport charge 5000 dong and take about an hour. Bus #07 crosses the Thang Long bridge and goes to the Daewoo Hotel on the western part of Hanoi. Bus #17 crosses the Chuong Duong bridge and goes close to the old quarter.
Shuttle-buses to the airport depart from opposite the Vietnam Airlines Office on Quang Trung (see below). Tickets cost ~US$2 and are sold in the building in front of which the minibuses park. From the airport, the fare is US$2. (The driver will potentially give you trouble if you have additional bags, but if you push, you will get the same US$2 rate.) The shuttle service will often offer to take you direct to your hotel for an extra dollar once they reach the office. This is purely voluntary, but experience says the drivers are fairly trustworthy and for the new arrival is a good way to get direct to the door. Check, however, that your hotel isn't less then two minutes' walk!
By train
Trains arrive at the main Hanoi train station (Ga Hang Co, 120 Le Duan, tel: 825 3949) daily from cities in the south including Hue and Nha Trang. The Reunification Express goes all the way to Ho Chi Minh City, although there is very little 'express' about it.
There are train services to the north-west (including Lao Cai, from which you reach Sapa - the onward route to Kunming in China is no longer open). To board trains bound for these destinations, you have to enter the railway station compound through the "backdoor" at Tran Quy Cap station. Just tell your driver which destination your train is heading to. Be mindful of any "helpful" stranger who offers to carry your luggage — he probably has a sum more than the cost of the ticket in mind for the help.
However, tickets for all destinations are sold in the main station, though there are two counter halls, north and south, serving the respective destinations. Buy your tickets as early as possible, since especially sleeper-tickets can be sold out several days in advance. If you can't get a ticket anymore, try a travel-agent who still might have stocks. You may also try your luck in the station just before boarding time, agents still holding tickets will be eager to sell as the departure draws near. Nevertheless travel agencies in Hanoi are known for their bad business practices. Some of them will try to overcharge you up to 300%, so better go to the train station by yourself and find out about the prices before you agree on any deal.
By bus
Most of the "open-tour" bus itineraries either begin or end in Hanoi, with Hue the next (or previous) stop (12-14 hours, US$8-9), and from there to Hoi An, Nha Trang, Dalat, Mui Ne, Ho Chi Minh City, and other cities in Vietnam, depending on the bus company.
Many of the same companies also sell tickets to Vientiane and Savannakhet in Laos (US$16-18), but do some research before you buy a ticket - rattle-trap scam buses abound on this route.
See Ho Chi Minh City to Shanghai overland if you're interested in crossing over to China by bus or train.
Get around


Hanoi traffic and commerce
Taxis are the best way to travel long distances, but the cyclos, or pedicabs, are a cheap way to make shorter trips. Taxi fares are not always consistent, and the rates for each taxi company have not been standardized. For lone travelers, rides on the back of motorbikes (actually low-powered scooters) are popular too (known as xe om, literally meaning motorbike-hug)
Some meter taxi owners in Hanoi will attempt to negotiate a flat fee in advance rather than use the meter. If you have a fair idea of how far you're going or how much you're willing to pay, this is probably a good idea. If the driver refuses, turning around and walking away will almost certainly change his mind! Don't sweat it, it's all part of the expected negotiation protocol. Meters may be cheaper, but they may not; drivers of less reputable taxi companies have been reported "fixing" their meters to run faster. If you're riding on the meter, keep an eye on it. Watch routes, too — if you catch driver doing things like going around Hoan Kiem Lake twice, demand that he stop.
Motorbike drivers can be found on virtually every corner, especially in the Old Quarter. Expect to be offered a ride every half-block (or more). Negotiate a fare in advance, and again, turn around and walk away if you don't like their offer. There are far more drivers than tourists, and they know it - your fare could be the only one they get all day. You might want to write down the negotiated fare to avoid confusion. Even if you do speak Vietnamese, a driver might pretend that you said 50,000 dong instead of 15,000! In case of argument over fares after the ride, keep calm and repeat the original agreement. (Remember, you have the leverage.) A typical 10 minute fare should cost no more than 15,000-20,000 dong. Many drivers will accept US dollars as well.
Motorcycles can be rented for around US$5-6 a day, and can be arranged by most hotels. This is good for making lots of trips around the city for individuals or duos, but be careful: Hanoi traffic is very difficult place to sharpen motorbike skills. Park on the sidewalk with other bikes, and be sure to lock the front wheel. Locals will help arrange the bikes near their stores.
See
Museums
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (Open mornings only, 8-11am; closed afternoons, Mondays, and Fridays. Admission free.) The city down south may have his name, but only Hanoi has the man himself, entombed in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion - against his wishes, but that's how it goes. No talking, short pants, or other signs of disrespect allowed while viewing; photos are allowed only from outside, in the grand Ba Dinh Square. Purses are allowed into the tomb, but expect them to be searched by several bored soldiers along the way. Left luggage is handled in a complicated scheme: there is an office near the street for large bags, with separate windows for Vietnamese and foreigners, and a further office for cameras, which will be transported to a third office right outside the exit of the mausoleum. Items checked in at the first office, however, will stay there. Note that the mausoleum is closed for a couple months around the end of the year, when the body is taken abroad for maintenance.


Gone bananas at the Ho Chi Minh Museum
Ho Chi Minh Museum (19 Ngoc Ha St., Ba Dinh, Hanoi; tel. +84-4 846-3572, fax +84-4 843-9837; Open 8-11:30am, 2-4pm, closed Monday and Friday afternoons. Admission 10,000 dong.) bthochiminh@hn.vnn.vn Right around the corner, this gleaming white museum and its gloriously ham-handed iconography are the perfect chaser to the solemnity of the mausoleum. The building, completed in 1990, is intended to evoke a white lotus. Some photos and old letters are on display on the second floor, but the main exhibition space is on the third floor. Guards won't allow photos of the giant bronze Ho Chi Minh statue at the top of the stairs, but tend not to care about photos of the rest of the exhibits, which include cars crashing through walls to represent the chaos of post-war American capitalism, soldiers charging around with electric plugs, and a cave hideout re-imagined as the inside of Ho Chi Minh's brain. Guides are available in English, French, Chinese and Russian, but don't bother; the displays are labeled in English and French, and it's hard to imagine the guides doing much other than belaboring the point.
Ho Chi Minh's Vestige In The Presidential Palace Area (No.1 Bach Thao, Ba Dinh, Hanoi; tel. +84 08044529, fax +84 08043064. Open 7:30-11am, 2-4pm in the summer, and 8-11am, 1:30-4pm in the winter. Closed Monday and Friday afternoons. Admission 15,000 dong.) The exit from the mausoleum takes you right into the grounds of the, uh, vestige, where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 until his death in 1969. The nicely landscaped complex includes two of Ho Chi Minh's houses, kept shiny and "as he left them" by the authorities, as well as a garage with two of Ho's cars and a carp-filled pond. The Presidential Palace is also nearby, but it's not always open to visitors. Pamphlets are available in English, Chinese, French, and Korean. Guided tours are usually available if you wait.
One-Pillar Pagoda. Tucked away between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum. Travelers find the One-Pillar Pagoda either charming and lovely or utterly pointless, depending on how many tour groups are crammed into the small grounds at the time of their visit. Either way, it's free.
Fine Arts Museum (Bảo Tàng Mỹ Thuật), 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street. Only party approved art is shown here and there is no information in English and only little in Vietnamese. But an interesting museum at any rate, with pieces such as the wonderful pictures of soldiers on boats depicted on prehistoric bronze drums, Buddhist art, and revolutionary art of the 20th century wars. Also some interesting silk paintings. Entry is 20,000 dong (in 2008).
Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu) (On Quoc Tu Giam St., south of the Mausoleum. Admission 5,000 dong.) The Temple of Literature was founded in 1070 and established as the country's first university six years later. The courtyard features numerous stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a tortoise, with the names of graduates.
Army Museum (Bảo Tàng Quân Đội), Dien Bien Phu Street (Admission 20,000 dong and 5.000 dong to take pictures). Vietnam's military history extends back some two millennia, and this museum covers it on four buildings wiht interested pieces. Legends on Vietinamese, french and english. On display outside are the ubiquitous MiG-21 jet fighter, T-54 tank and many bombs and articles captured on Indochina and Vietnam wars.
Air Force Museum (Bảo Tàng Không Quân), Truong Chinh Street (Southwest of center). There's a decent outdoor collection of Soviet-built MiG fighters, a huge Mi-6 helicopter, and other aircraft; unfortunately they've been exposed to the elements for some time and local kids climb over them.
Natural Museum of Vietnamese History, No. 1, Trang Tien Street (Admission 15,000 dong/Students 8,000 and under 15 just 2,000. 15,000 dong for a camera/30,000 dong for a video). Hours: 8 to 11.30 and from 13.30 to 16.30. This is a collection from Vietnamese history from about 1000 years back until 1945. Many antiques and the such. From 1945 onwards, you can go to the Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution located just a five minute walk away.
Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution, 25 Tong Dan Street (and 216 Tran Quang Khai Street) Open every day except Monday, from 8.00 to 11.45 and from 13.30 to 16.15. Admission 10,000 dong. This museum gives a very informed and detailed account of the Vietnamese struggle against first the French (starting in 1858 -- on the first floor), then against the Americians (on the ground floor -- ending on 30 April 1975).
Museum of Ethnology, Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay district. Open every day except Monday, 0830-1730. Admission 25000 dong (or was it 20000 dong?) for foreigners. It covers mainly the material culture and ritual practices of the various ethnic groups in the whole of Vietnam-- one of the key attractions of the museum is the open-air exhibition, which has houses of some ethnic groups, which even comes with inhabitants in costumes. Accessible by bus no. 14 that starts from Hoan Kiem Lake-- ask the conductor when to stop, and take a 500m walk towards the museum (backtrack a little from the bus stop, and when you see a large street perpendicular to the street that you dropped off, take that street and walk down the street until you see the Museum of Ethnology to your left). The Museum of Ethnology is houses the excellent Chocolate and Baguettes cafe, which has excellent fare at a reasonable price-- an excellent pit-stop after the museum visit.
Parks


Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi
Hoan Kiem Lake is a pleasant park in the center of town, within easy walking distance from anywhere in the Old Quarter. It's the locals' favorite leisure spot, and a great place to watch early-morning tai chi or sit and read in the afternoon. Hoan Kiem means "returned sword", and the name comes from a legend in which King Le Loi was given a magical sword by the gods, which he used to drive out the invading Chinese. Later, while boating on the lake, he encountered a giant turtle, who grabbed the sword and carried it down to the depths, returning it to the gods from whom it had come. (You can see a version of the legend at the Water Puppet Theater - see below.) Rumor has it the giant turtles still inhabit the lake.
Ngoc Son Temple (admission 2,000 dong) extends out into the lake, with small but attractive grounds, displays on Vietnamese history and, more memorably, displays on the giant turtles, including a mummified specimen.
Ho Tay, or "West Lake", is northwest of the city, and is mostly a residential hub of the well-to-do. Sofitel Plaza Hotel, one of the most luxurious hotels in Hanoi, is located on this lakefront.
Wartime sites
Hoa Lo Prison ("The Hanoi Hilton"), 1 Hoa Lo, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Open 8.30 to 11.30 and 13.30 to 16.30, admission 5,000 dong. This prison was built by the French at the turn of the 20th century, in classical French prison design. This is where the French imprisoned and executed many of the Vietnamese freedom fighters. The prison was also used to hold U.S. prisoners of war. Now a museum (2/3 of the prison was torn down to make way for the Hanoi Towers), the museum gives a very good example of the brutal French colonial regime and the struggle of the Vietnamese people against imperialism.
B-52 Lake. Until December 19, 1972, this was just a small brackish pond just off Hoang Hoa Tam Street, about 1 km west of the mausoleum. On that day, in a twisted retelling of the Hoan Kiem legend (see above), Vietnamese anti-aircraft guns (possibly with the help of flying turtles) retook the enemy's eight-engined, 100-ton sword and sent it, too, to the shallow bottom of the lake, where it remains today.
Downed Aircraft Memorial. Along Thanh Nien Street on Truc Bach lake there is a stone plaque commemorating the shooting down of a U.S. Navy (not "USAF" as depicted) aircraft in 1967. Peruse the Vietnamese script and you can pick out the name of John McCain, one of the airmen.
Theatre
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (57 Dinh Tien Hoang St., across the street from the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake; tel. +84-4-824-9494, fax +84.4.824-5117). A visit to the water puppet theater is a real highlight of a trip to Hanoi. Live musicians accompany folk legends from Vietnamese history, told with wooden men, women and dragons, dancing and splashing on the face of the water. The narratives are sung in Vietnamese, but a list of titles is available in several languages. Tickets are 20,000/40,000 dong. There are several performances throughout the day, but it's virtually impossible to buy tickets for the same day, and most performances for the following day will be sold out as well. Camera passes are an extra 15,000 dong, but whether you buy one or not is purely on the honor system. Don't worry about getting wet, but the seats are very small, and visitors with above-average height will have to squirm a bit.
Do
Sit on a plastic chair in front of one of the Bia Hoi (fresh beer) establishments which are invariably situated on the corners of many of Hanoi's 'Old Quarter' streets. This preservative-free light beer is the perfect drink to sup upon as you watch the city's frenetic life bustle by. The beer costs less than twenty cents and gives you an excuse to relax and take photos of the passing local characters. Should not be missed. Moreover, once you reach the Old Quarter, you will find that almost every corner is filled with stalls selling Pho (Vietnamese noodle) and cafe (the name is not limited only to coffee, but also tea, sweets and grocery items, and yes, even to Pho!).
Learn
National Economics University
Work
Buy
Hanoi is a shoppers paradise for silk, lacquerware, wood, custom tailoring and other Asian inspired design. The bargains are among the best in Asia. Artisans and craftsmen have set up shop in the Old Quarter for generations, and each street is named after the item traditionally sold there. Among the more interesting sights are the streets close to the lake full of nothing but stores overflowing with wave upon wave of white shoes, and a few shops offering to custom-carve black marble tombstones (complete with portrait) for anyone passing by.
In the quarter between Hoan Kiem Lake and the Cathedral, you'll find numerous shops with the same selection but of better quality. Vendors know that, so prices are higher than in the Old Quarter. Shops can sometimes arrange shipment to overseas destinations, and even with the added costs you'll still have a bargain.
There are two major shopping malls in Hanoi, Trang Tien Plaza and the new-built Vincom City Towers. Both are located in the Hoan Kiem District.
Bookworm, 4B Yen The (Near the Temple of Literature and the Goethe Institute), ☎ 84 4 943 7226 (bookworm@fpt.vn). 10AM-7PM, closed Mondays. The only English bookshop in Hanoi, apparently. Good selection of new and used books. You can sell your unwanted books to them too.
Khue Binh Jewelry, 114 Hang Bac, ☎ 9260256. Tiny jewelry shop, operating off-street out of somebody's house. Walk through the narrow passageway and wake up the old lady to buy some exquisite and breath-takingly cheap jewelry.
Ngo Kim Nhat ART Gallery, 6 Tho Xuong Street (not far from the the Cathedral), ☎ (84-4) 2 700 448 (info@ngokimnhat.com), [12]. Open daily from 10am to 8pm. Affordable contemporary Asian art, professing to offer a warm, relaxing atmosphere for experts and tourists alike.
Rang Xay Che Bian Cafe, 56 Hang Buom, Old Quarter. A true gem waiting to be discovered. Serves Vietnamese coffee. Must trys are the Iced white coffee with milk, Hot Black coffee & Iced white coffee with milk and hot, thick cocoa syrup! Ground coffee poweder also available for purchase. Simply choose coffee beans of your choice and watch the young teenage boy grind and have them packed them into dainty little shiny foil bags.
Eat
Since the mid 90s, the Vietnamese cuisine has caught up again and is now very diverse and most delicious. Most famous remains 'Pho Ga' (chicken noodle soup) or 'Pho Bo'(Beef noodle soup). There are various dishes including chicken, beef, fish and seafood.
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of restaurants nowadays in Hanoi catering to everyone's taste. Be careful in your selection of eatery as most often the food on offer is utterly appalling and prepared in the most unhygienic conditions. Often western travelers need to contend with recurring bouts of diarrhea and should prepare themselves for the eventuality.
On Tô Tich, a small street connecting Hang Quat and Hang Gai, you can help yourself to a refreshing fruit milkshake (sinh tố) at one of the stalls (~7000 dong).
You can also try BBQ pork (slice) in soup with vermicelli and lots of vegi at DAC KIM (24, Hang Ga, Hoen Kiem, Hanoi; open 8am-8pm). They serve spring rolls too.
The Sofitel Metropole does an "eat all you can" chocolate buffet each day from 15:00 to 17:30. The price of $15++, tea is available at $4++ per pot. The chocolate is of a very high quality and includes a chocolate fountain and chocolate ice cream as well as a variety of freshly-made "Belgian" style chocolates.
The community of Le Mat (aka the Snake Village) has numerous restaurants specializing in cobra foodstuffs. Live cobras are stored on the premises much the same way one would find live lobsters at a western seafood restaurant. If one orders cobra blood wine from the menu, the waiter will take a live cobra, kill it on the spot, drain the blood into a shot glass of rice wine, and top it off with the cobra's still beating heart for you to gulp down! Not for the faint of heart. Le Mat is about ten minutes across the river from downtown.
A local delicacy in the Hanoi area is dog meat (thịt chó), which is especially popular in the winter. There are a number of restaurants along the Red River that specialize in it. Another exotic regional taste is ca cuong, an extract from the belostomatid, or giant water bug. Just a few drops are added to noodles for the unique aroma.
Budget
Look to the Old Quarter for atmospheric street stalls and reasonably priced Western and local fare.
Hebe cafe' 33, Luong Van Can street, near the Hoan Kiem lake, in the center of Hanoi Old Quarter (inside Hanoi Youth Hotel). Local and Western food at prices to suit travellers. US$1$ breakfasts, US$2 pizza, US$8 hot pot.
Huy Café & Pizza Inn (32 Dinh Liet Street) offers a large Italian dinner combo (garlic bread, soup/salad, pizza/pasta, drink) for only 65,000 dong.
Papa Joe's Coffee (112 Cau Go, tel. +84 926-2544; open 8am-11pm) Despite the name, this is actually a full-on restaurant, with pasta, soup, salads, sandwiches, and pretty good burgers (vegetarian included). Drinks and desserts are also on hand. Entrees are 45-65,000 dong. The best reason to eat here, though, is the view over the frantic traffic square and the shores of the Hoan Kiem Lake below.
Great food and frequent visitor program
Pho on the corner of Nha Chung and Chan Cam sells the traditional watery noodle soup. All of the soups and sides include beef (bo) so this isn't for veggies. A large bowl of pho will set you back 12,000 dong and a bottle of Coke or a beer a further 3,000 dong.
Pho (10 Ly Quoc Su) sells apart from the Pho bo (noodle soup with beef) also noodles with vegetables - and of course beef on top of it. A dish will cost you something between 15,000 dong and 30,0000 dong.
Pho Tu Lun (Au Trieu) sells apart from the Pho bo (noodle soup with beef) also noodles with vegetables - and of course beef on top of it. A dish will cost you something between 15,000 dong and 30,0000 dong.
Mid-range
Lay Bac 135 (135 Hang Bac Street - Old Quarter). A friendly and cleaning small restaurant serving sandwiches, western and local food with good prices (about 45.000 dong each). Open until midnight.
Pepperoni's near the Hang Gai end of Wha Chung is part of a small international chain of pizza restaurants. Locally run, they do regular special offers such as free desserts, eat-all-you-can buffets and loyalty schemes, whereby collecting tokens with east take-out entitles you to a free pizza. Pizzas start from around 65,000 dong and the menu also includes burgers, ice cream and apple crumble.
Cha Ca La Vong (14 Cha Ca Street, also 107 Nguyen Truong To Street) - this establishment is so famous, the street is named after it, instead of the other way around. There's only one dish on the menu, fried fish in grease, but they've been serving it for five generations. It's 90,000 dong (~$6 USD) per foreign person (as of July 2008) and the portion is rather small. They also charge 1,000 dong for one napkin. They have eliminated the traditional shrimp paste recently as well.
Huyen Houng Restaurant, 20 Bao Khanh, Hanoi, ☎ 04.8288430. Choose from a wide variety of seafood dishes (many of which are swimming around in tanks) and other Vietnamese specialities. Friendly staff complement the tasty food. Recommended. about 80000-120000 dong for a meal and drink.
Festa,(39c Ly Quoc Su,close to the Cathedral and the Youth Hostel ) Italian restaurant with a twist.Excellent and inexpensive (95.000 dong at the moment) lunch buffet. Great roof-top terrace and BBQ. Italian chef. Large portions. Great wine selection also by the glass and stone-baked pizza. At the end of your meals ask for your complimentary home-made Limoncello or Orange,Basil,Ginger or Chilli flavoured liquor. Children-friendly ,lots of toys.
Hapro, a Vietnamese vodka company, maintains two locations on the southwest corner of Hoan Kiem lake; the indoor location has free Wi-Fi Internet access.
Little Hanoi - basically Western food with some Vietnamese food.
Little Hanoi 2 is very good for Western breakfasts and sandwiches.
Moka Café (In Nha Tho Street close to the cathedral) has an execellent selection of Western, Vietnamese. A little coffe shop atmoshpere food was ok.
Tamarind Café (Ma May 80, Old Quarter; tel. +84 4 926-0580) [13] Has a menu full of inventive vegetarian dishes, lots of fresh juices, and a relaxed, stylish interior. Don't come here if you're ravenous and out to fill your belly, though, as the portions aren't very big, and it's a tad pricey.
La Salsa (in Nha Tho street near the church in old town - just across the street from Moka Cafe) - French food and ex-pat hang-out.
Paris Deli (near St Joseph's Catheral)offers delicious Italian meal (pasta, pizza, bread, soup etc.)
Splurge
La Restaurant & Bar, 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hanoi, ☎ 9288933, 0913221971.
Situated near St. Joseph's Cathedral in Hanoi's old quarter, this elegant, air-conditioned restaurant has a choice of delicious western and Vietnamese dishes. While the selection of vegetarian dishes is somewhat restricted, the food is excellent, if pricey by Hanoi standards. La will definitely satisfy longings for quality food after weeks of eating on the street. Think Parisian bistro meets fine dining Asian. About 300,000 dong for a meal and drinks.
The Press Club Restaurant
Green Tangerine - By Western standards, very moderately priced. By Hanoi standards, a bit pricey. Very good French restaurant with both an a la carte selection and a set menu
Restaurant Bobby Chinn - A once good restaurant now seeming to trade on it's reputation. Prices have risen steeply and food quality has dropped considerably.
Sunday Brunch at Sofitel Metropole - If you live to eat and enjoy innovative and unconventional cooking, then treat yourself and your loved ones to the famous Sofitel Metropole Sunday Brunch. It's from noon to 3pm every Sunday and will set you back US$50++/head, but then it also sports approx. 40 meters of buffet with everything your heart can desire, from sushi to carvery, from fresh french oysters to homemade ice cream - you name it - they've got it. Among the highlights are a 3 storey chocolate buffet with a chocolate fountain. Their desserts are out of this world and the goose liver creme brulee is not only innovative; it's also divine.
Drink
Bia Hơi is abundant in the streets of the Old Quarter. At the crossing of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen five separate venues fill up with travellers in the evenings, but you can get more local atmosphere on some of the side streets.
Hanoi is a lively city on the weekends, but the Old Quarter closes relatively early (at midnight) on weekdays, so you might want to start your night early.
The LOFT Bar & Restaurant] LOFT Bar & Restaurant, 143, Ba Trieu Street, Hai Ba Trung District (5 minutes walk from vincom towers), ☎ 049744398, 11am to 12 midnight. One of the most diverse Bar & Restaurant located in Central Hanoi that has a good mix of expatriates & Asian crowd. With live band playing from Mondays to Saturdays. It is the only the first of it's kind in Hanoi providing a mixture of asean & western food with good music.
For those who wants a quiet evening drinking with friends. The Restaurant on the second floor changes itself into a lounge after 8 so there will be a good mix of noise on the first floor with the live band and music and quiet atmosphere on the second.
Take advantage of it's daily set lunch ( 11.30 am to 1.30 pm ) and dinner ( 6 pm to 7.30 pm ) menu at 35k dong ( approx 2 usd ) which is one of the cheapest and with huge portions inclusive. Happy hours are daily at 25k vnd a beer from 5pm to 8 pm daily. The people there makes you want to party more but sadly by Vietnamese law. All outlets will have to close by 12 midnight.
Here is a Tipper : party early
The Jazz Club by Quyen Van Minh] - (31 Luong Van Can - Old Quarter). A good place to drink, eat and listen to jazz music. Founded by Mr Minh (already legendary in Hanoi in the early 90s) in 1999, the bar reminds one of the old bars of New Orleans and of the best around the world. Also the kitchen is very good. Live music really starts at 21h until 23h. You can also buy gifts such as t-shirts and CD's. Open between 7.00 p.m. and midnight.
Culi Café, 40 Lương Ngọc Quyến, (84-04)9262241 culicafe@wideeyedtours.com - for the feeling you haven't left your hometown or just need a break from Bia Hoi, this Kiwi-run bar might be the answer. Air-con lounge upstairs, with wireless connections, sports occasionally screened in the bar downstairs. The same bar also runs a travel agency.
Green Lake (Ho Guom Xanh) 32 Le Thai To, is a crowded bar with weekly performances by popular local singers. A place for the definitive Vietnamese entertainment scene.
Le Maquis is a small bar on the northern end of Ta Hien. It's more like a loud rock music binge and smoke pub than a stylish lounge, but there's usually a happy crowd until late and the place has an authentic feel.
Sleep
[] Budget
The Old Quarter is littered with guesthouses and hostels catering for budget travelers.
Hanoi Backpackers' Hostel, 48 Ngo Huyen St, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi (One block north of St Joseph's Cathedral. Signposted from there. Free train station pickups), ☎ (84-4) 828 5372 (info@hanoibackpackershostel.com),. Check in: 24 hours; Check out: 24 hours. The only actual youth hostel in Hanoi, run by two Australians who have lived there for many years. Clean air-conditioned rooms (including female-only dorms plus double rooms), powerful and hot showers, frequent BBQs on the balcony, free Wi-Fi and Internet and excellent staff who are always available to help. All dorm beds have a large personal locker (no extra fee), shelf and nightlight. Tour bookings, train tickets and visa extensions/applications can also be dealt with here by guests and non-guests alike. Part of the Hostelling International association, so valid card-holders will get a discount. Also possibly the cheapest hostel in the world where you can apply for such a card which can be used elsewhere. $7.5 per night dorm / $30 per night double inc breakfast.
Especen Hotel, 28 Tho Xuong street & 41 Ngo Huyen street, Tel: ☎ (84 4) 8244401 especen@gmail.com [19]. The hotel is located about 30 meters from St. Joseph's Church (Cathedral) on a quiet alley off of Au Trieu street. This convenient location allows us to be just a 5 minute walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Vietnam Airlines booking office & Quang Trung bus stop (for service to Noi Bai airport). You can visit all famous travel points, restaurants, pubs and art galleries... in Hanoi. Most with-in walking distance from the Especen hotel. The hotel has 18 rooms, including standard, superior and deluxe with rates from US$12-25. Rooms are new remodeled, clean, quiet, bright with windows, some rooms include balcony, large and have big beds, 21" or 29" satellite TV, hot water, air conditioner and refrigerator, IDD telephone. Free internet access at lobby & WIFI in room.
Kangaroo Hotel, Hang Luoc St (about 10 mins walk from Hoan Kiem lake), ☎ (84-4) 8258044 (hanoihotelgroup@yahoo.com). Check out: 12 noon. Small hotel in the Old Quarter. Comfortable beds, amazing hot water pressure for showers, good air-con/fan combos. Satellite TV, free Internet and free breakfast (order omlette). Very helpful staff with good English. For the budget traveller - best to book with a group. Famous Cha Ca restaraunt is <4 href="mailto:contact@camellia-hotel5.com">contact@camellia-hotel5.com, fax: (84 4) 828 2404), [20]. Check out: 12 noon. Small hotel on the heart of Old Quarter. Clean rooms and baths with good air-con, satellite TV, free Internet and free breakfast. Friendly English speaking staff who will help you book good value tours etc. from reception. From 12 US$12.
Hanoi Youth Hotel, 33 Luong Van Can street, tel: +84 4 8285822 sales@hanoiyouthhotel.com [21], is conveniently located near the Hoan Kiem lake, in the center of Hanoi Old Quarter. The hotel has 17 rooms, including standard, superior and deluxe with rates from US$12-30. Rooms are large and have big beds, and WiFi, but air-con is sometimes poor. However, this seems to have changed recently and now the rooms can become quite cool.
Lucky Eden Hotel, 35 Quan Thanh, tel: +84 4 7341 249 luckyedenhotel@gmail.com, is located near the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, and close enough to most popular places in Hanoi. From cheap single rooms to deluxe rooms.
Real Darling Café Guesthouse, 33 Hang Quat, Old Quarter (2 minutes walk from the north side of Hoan Kiem Lake) tel: +84 4 826 9386 fax: +84 4 824 3468 darling_cafe@hotmail.com has basic but cheap rooms (US$6+, dorm beds US$3/night, long stayers can get lower rates) with fan, hot showers and optional air-con; there's a steep climb up to all the rooms. Helpful and friendly staff; the café on the ground floor does a good breakfast; they run a cheap and fair travel agency downstairs that doesn't try to rip you off; bicycles and motorbikes for rent. Keep an eye out for construction on Hang Quat (Fan Street), though.
Thang Long Opera Hotels (formerly Thuy Tien Hotel) - only three minutes to Hanoi Opera House and five minutes walk from the Hoan Kiem Lake or Hanoi Old Quarter.
Thanh An Hotel at 46 Hang Ga Street offers rooms with attached bathroom after some haggling for 80000 dong. Be prepared for damp walls, cockroaches and a hostile management.
Wing Hotel, 23 Hang Non, Old Quarter, not far from Real Darling, the Wing Hotel has clean rooms, friendly and professional staff and a book exchange. Breakfast is available. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the street. A double can cost as low as 160,000 dong, although the standard price is 192,000.
Old Quarter Hostel, 91 Hang Ma, +84 902 29 1886. Newly opened. Cheap, very friendly and helpful service, clean rooms. Bunk is $6.00, single or shared rooms at $10.00 to $15.00 respectively, including the 10% tax. Includes breakfast and internet access in lobby and rooms. Just a few mins by walk to Dong Xuan Market (wholesale market).
Stars Hotel 26 Bat Su, Old Quarter tel: +84 4 828 1911 or +84 4 828 1912. Outstanding hotel staff, very friendly and helpful. (Ms Vuhn, Mr Guang & Mr Doh) Clean rooms with impressive bathroom. Breakfast available. Just a few mins by walk to Dong Xuan Market and Hoan Kiam Lake. Rates from USD$15 - $28. Free Internet available in some rooms and also at dining room at ground level.
Mid-range
Continental Hotel - 24, Hang Vai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Boutique-style hotel, has clean and spacious rooms; Hotel staffs are courteous, friendly and warm. Walking distance to Hoan Kiem Late, easy access to restaurants and shops. (around US$24 for a single room, US$28 for twin sharing, incl bf and taxes)
Ocean Stars 2 Hotel, No.10 Ngo Dao Duy Tu lane, Hoan Kiem, ☎ +84 4 8281711 (mailto:mailto:oceanstars2hotel@hotmail.com, fax: +84 4 9263745),. Established in November 2007, Ocean Stars 2 Hotel is situated in the heart of Hanoi's Old Quarter. The 25 rooms offer with hot water, private bathrooms, and fan or air conditioning. There is also a fridge, satellite TV, telephone access, internet access in the rooms and the lobby. Note, this hotel is not located on Dao Duy Tu St, instead on Ngo Dao Duy Tu. Look for alley at 52 Dao Duy Tu St. US$16-30.
Green Park Hotel - overlooking the immense green of the biggest park of the city and along the vicinity of Thien Quang Lake. Its architectural design combines the 19th century French assembly with modern Vietnamese concepts.
Hanoi Phoenix Hotel ,No.43 Bat Su street ,Hoan Kiem district., Tel: +84 4 9232683, fax :+84 4 9232111 ,[mail to :info@phoenixhanoihotel.com ,hanoiphoenixhotel@yahoo.com]
is is situated in the heart of Hanoi's Old Quarter. The 30 rooms offer with hot water, private bathrooms, and fan or air conditioning. There is also a fridge, satellite TV, telephone access, internet access free of charge in the rooms and the lobby,the friendly staff can help with arranging tours etc.Prices start at US$15 (all taxes included, plus breakfast, internet, and wifi).
Hanoi Elegance Hotel, No 85 Ma May Str & No 8 Hang Bac Str., tel: +84 4 9263451, fax:+84 4 9263452, info@hanoielegancehotel.com is in a street in the Old Quarter that thanks to a curb doesn't see as much through-traffic and thus is quieter than most. The newly built boutique hotel offers luxury accommodation in elegant settings with modern facilities & amenities served by professional staff. Rooms US$28-70 with TV, fan, air-con, hot shower, bathtub or Jacuzzi and optional breakfast. In-room computer with Internet access is free of charge. The friendly staff can help with arranging tours etc.
Hanoi Pacific Hotel (vihnvn@yahoo.com), In the Old Quarter, Pacific hotels are centrally located to all shopping destinations and key Hanoi attractions. US$25-55.
Huyen Trang Hotel - one of the most beautiful 2 star hotels in the city, next to Hoan Kiem Lake.
Majestic Salute Hotel - in the Old Quarter, a newly built boutique hotel with marvelous French architecture.
Queen Travel Hotel, 65 Hang Bac-Hoan Kiem, ☎ + 84 48260860 (queenaz@fpt.vn, fax: + 84 4 8260300), "The stylish Queen of the Old Quarter" touts its friendliness and reliability.
Quoc Hoa Hotel - in the Old Quarter. Opened in 1991, and one of the first private boutique hotels in Hanoi.
Rising Dragon Hotel 61 Hang Be Street - Vietnamese and American managed, next to Hoan Kiem Lake, new facilities in renovated historic building of the Old Quarter. Special tour services. Prices start at US$25 (all taxes included, plus breakfast, internet, and wifi). Visit us soon for special deals during our one-year anniversary in June 2008!
Sunshine Hotel, 42 Ma May Street has clean rooms in the middle of the Old Quarter (around US$30 incl. taxes & breakfast)
Sunny Hotel - enjoys views towards both the Old Citadel and the West Lake.
Viet Anh Hotel, 11 Ma May St., Tel: +84-4 9261302, Fax: +84-4 9261306, . A terrific hotel with friendly staff, reputable tours, and newly remodeled rooms, located on a shady, beautiful street in the Old Quarter. Internet and a good buffet breakfast (with chef on hand) are included in the room rate. Room rates can be negotiable depending on the season, with some as low as US$15, but official prices range from US$18 for a standard room to US$60 for a family suite.
Zephyr Hotel - just a few steps from the famous Hoan Kiem Lake, and within walking distance of the Opera House.
[] Splurge
Daewoo Hanoi Hotel 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh District US$170+ - The Daewoo Hotel was the first "5 star" hotel in Hanoi and has since been renovated. This hotel is located about 15-20 minutes by taxi from the center of town, which makes it a quieter if less convenient place for tourists to stay. The hotel is part of a larger apartment and business complex that includes 7 restaurants and cafes, 2 banks, and even a dance club. There is a large pool, exercise room, business center with translation services, and free broadband internet access in the rooms.
Fortuna Hotel
Guoman Hotel - on Ly Thuong Kiet Street.
Hanoi Horison Hotel - opened in 1997.
Hanoi Hotel - near the city centre and International Trade Exhibition Fair Centre.
Hilton Hanoi - US$80-105
Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel - adjacent to the Hanoi Opera House.
Melia Hanoi Hotel - Ly Thuong Kiet street USD139++ onwards-- Rooms are big, and offer great views of the city, service is also excellent. Rates include an excellent international buffet breakfast. Located within very short walking distance from Hanoi Towers and Hoa Lu prison, and is about 15 mins slow walk from the Old Quarters.
Nikko Hanoi Hotel
Sheraton Hanoi Hotel - on the shore of Hanoi's largest West lake, with lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards.
Sofitel Hanoi - 15 Ngo Quyen Street (between the lake and the Opera) US$169-390
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi Hotel - within walking distance of the Hanoi Opera House, Hoan Kiem Lake, etc.
Sofitel Plaza Hotel (formerly Meritus West Lake) - renowned as the most scenic hotel in Ha Noi with a zig zag facade and stepped architecture.
Sunway Hotel - boutique style, 143 rooms
[] Contact
[] Telephone
Hanoi code: 4
[] Internet
There are plenty of Internet cafés all over the city. Most are used by Vietnamese teens playing online dance or battle games. Rates vary, but can be as low as 3000 dong/hour. Some of the better cafés, particularly in the Old Quarter, have computers that are Skype-capable for international phone calls.


Monks crossing the street
[] Stay safe
Like everywhere else in Vietnam, traffic in Hanoi is dominated by an incredible amount of motorbikes, all of which seem to be making a mad, desperate dash for something just out of reach — all of the time. In other words, pedestrian traffic can be overwhelming for visitors, especially in the narrow streets around the Old Quarter. When you leave the curb, look both ways, and take each step slowly and patiently while trying to make eye contact with any oncoming drivers. The key word here is slowly — don't rush. This way the drivers are aware of you, and can take you into account (along with all of the other motorbikes). It may look, and indeed is somewhat chaotic, but be patient and pay attention when you're crossing any street, large or small, and you should be fine.
[] Cope
[] Embassies & consulates
British Embassy, Central Building, 31 Hai Ba Trung, ☎ ++ (84) (4) 9360550 (behanoi@hn.vnn.vn, fax: ++ (84) (4) 9360562). 08:30-12:30 & 13:30-16:30.
Embassy of India 58-60, Tran Hung Dao Hanoi Tel. 00-84-4-253409 252310
[] Embassies in Hanoi with Websites
Australia:
http://www.vietnam.embassy.gov.au/
Argentina
http://www.embargentina.org.vn/
Britain:
http://www.uk-vietnam.org/
Canada:
http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/vietnam
Czech Republic:
http://www.czechembassy.org/wwwo/?zu=hanoi
France:
http://www.ambafrance-vn.org/
Germany:
http://www.germanembhanoi.org.vn/
Italy:
http://www.embitalyvietnam.org/
Malaysia:
http://www.kln.gov.my/perwakilan/hanoi
Netherlands:
http://www.netherlands-embassy.org.vn/
Norway:
http://www.norway.org.vn/
Singapore:
http://www.mfa.gov.sg/hanoi
Sweden:
http://www.swedenabroad.com/hanoi
Taiwan:
http://www.teco.org.vn/
USA:
http://vietnam.usembassy.gov/
[] Others without Website
http://www.embassiesabroad.com/embassies-in/Vietnam#3266
[] Get out
If you are the adventurous type or simply bored temporarily of the city atmosphere, then consider a cruise in the northern countryside. A round trip will bring you to a lot of charming villages and through hills and valleys with stunning nature. Main roads are generally in good condition and you can easily do a couple of hundred kilometers a day. The villages and provinces are generally safe at night, and you get to see a lot of Vietnamese culture such as various tribe folks. While bus services are in fact available (albeit not always reliable), a recommended alternative is to rent a bike or car and make the trip on your own. Motorbikes in decent quality can be rented for as little as US$5 a day, and many places have suggestions for routes.
The Perfume Pagoda is a Buddhist pilgrimage site about 60 km southwest of Hanoi. A full-day excursion involves a boat trip, hiking up a mountain, and visiting various temples and grottoes.
Bat Trang is a village world-famous for its pottery, 9 km southeast of Hanoi. It is accessible by taking Bus 47, which originates at Long Bien. Just hop on (the bus will be clearly labelled with the number 47 and the text "Long Bien - Bat Trang"; bus fare is 3000 dong one-way as of 2008) and take it to the last stop, which is directly opposite the pottery market (haggle for lower prices, and insist on paying in Dong). Head back up the street to the factories to see artists at work.
Cao Bang, featuring the beautiful Ban Gioc waterfall, is five hours away by bus, near the Chinese border.
The Cuc Phuong National Park is the largest national park in Vietnam, and an easy day-trip from Hanoi.
Staying overnight in a boat on the breath-taking Ha Long Bay (or in a hotel on Cat Ba Island) is the most popular side-trip from Hanoi.
The northern village of Sapa, home to ethnic minorities, gorgeous mountain scenery, and trekking paths connecting many tiny mountain villages, is also a popular two or three day trip. It is accessible by train (to Lao Cai) followed by a minibus link to the town. The trekking paths have no signs, so a hiring a guide is well-advised.
Tam Coc/Hoa Lu: Located in Ninh Binh province, this day trip is a combines heritage tourism and natural landscape tourism. Hoa Lu is the site of the first capital of Vietnam in the 10th century, and was home to two kings-- Dinh Bo Linh (Dinh Tien Hoang) and Le Hoan-- there are now two shrines dedicated to these two kings. About 30 mins away from Hoa Lu is Tam Coc [three grottoes]-- also known as Halong Bay on land. It features karst landforms surrounded by padi fields, and is accessed by little wooden boats. Boats are for hire at 3.5 USD/trip, which takes about one hour. This is an excellent alternative to Halong Bay for those who have short attention spans, as the boat trip takes a mere hour vis-a-vis Halong Bay boat trips, which take 5 hours - 2 days. One minor annoyance involves peddlars on boats hawking their wares, and your boat rower trying to sell you embroidery. Trip can be booked in Hanoi backpacker cafes at about 20USD.